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#11
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I completed an overhaul of my 108 late last year. Here's what I did (for you to consider)
engine overhaul, rings, piston, bearings, seals points, plug, plug wire, condenser new fuel tank (mine started leaking through pinholes when I cleaned it up) steering gear overhaul, bearings, seal, follower stud, Drive clutch disk, throw out bearing, clutch actuating bracket pin, clutch spring, teaser spring, drive plate sleeve bearing, new spiral pins. PTO overhauled--bearing and collar, clutch disk, clutch springs front wheel bearings tie rod ends axle channel squeezed tighter new axle pin change rear end oil new neutral safety switch and spring actuator new battery cables new rear lights (previously had reflectors) Clean and paint most parts, but not a show quality job I did not split the tractor. Check your brake pads, might need those. Good luck--its a fun project. Took me about 6 weeks working evenings.
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#12
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6 weeks thats pretty good. My guess Is I can get the tractor tore down in 4-5 hours baring any major issues. another couple hours to tear down the engine and figure out what it needs, 20 hours of prep work and about 6 hours of painting. another 6-8 hours of assy.
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Cub 104 Refurbed Sprinig of 2013 Aftermarket headlights, 3 point, Brinly Adapter, Spring Assist, 42" IH Blade, 42" Mower Deck, 42" Craftsman Grader Blade, 10" Brinly Plow, 6-12 ags and 22x9.50 turfs |
#13
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dont forget rear end seals
i have to tear back apart my daughters pink 72 to do the axle seals |
#14
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Mine currently aren't leaking. I wasn't planning on splitting the tractor to do this I was going to leave the frame and rear end attached. As I said this isn't a full resto and aside from the motor and the steering its in pretty good shape (spent a long time in a barn according to the PO)
Are any special tools needed for this?
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Cub 104 Refurbed Sprinig of 2013 Aftermarket headlights, 3 point, Brinly Adapter, Spring Assist, 42" IH Blade, 42" Mower Deck, 42" Craftsman Grader Blade, 10" Brinly Plow, 6-12 ags and 22x9.50 turfs |
#15
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Working on the clutch spring can be interesting. I used a woodworking bench vise to hold the shaft vertical, then tapped it down with a hammer to compress the spring. You will need a few pin punches, gasket scraper, other common tools. A parts washer would be nice, but I used a bucket and some paint thinner. Lots of dirty parts to clean, prep, and repaint. Allow plenty of time for that, and replace the decals. I forgot to mention that.
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#16
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My brother has a parts washer so I guess I will be borrowing that. Would a car spring compressor work for the clutch. I've got one of those
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Cub 104 Refurbed Sprinig of 2013 Aftermarket headlights, 3 point, Brinly Adapter, Spring Assist, 42" IH Blade, 42" Mower Deck, 42" Craftsman Grader Blade, 10" Brinly Plow, 6-12 ags and 22x9.50 turfs |
#17
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A car spring compressor won't work. I have one of those, too, but it's too big to deal with the clutch spring. There are instructions in the service manual how to use a vise. There is a special tool available sold by some of the sponsors of this forum, but I haven't found a need for it. But I only did one job. If I were doing a bunch of them, I might "spring" for the tool.
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#18
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What is the current condition of the paint? You can save yourself loads of work by recognizing the differences between sealed paint and places that would be best to sand down to bare metal.
I would replace the gear oil, true up the drive hubs and replace the clutch disk. Good luck!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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