lucky find

[Diz Jr.]

Nice payment for helping him out

[fhadderton]

. . . .

[fhadderton]

Thats the back side of the blade the front mount, sub frame, and rear sub frame mount. The frame hooks up to the rear and the front so it should be strong

[fhadderton]

I think I found another problem. I was checking everything over just for general maintenance and came across this

[fhadderton]

What is the best thing to replace the part with

[Methos]

Originally Posted by fhadderton

What is the best thing to replace the part with

Time to replace with new rag joints from your dealer or site sponsor.

[fhadderton]

What would it hurt to fab a part out of metal for the conection???

[JayJay]

fhadderton: I would replace with the single rag joint as per the original factory install. Things to check upon removal include the flanged bearing mount (Item #4) that centers the drive shaft in the drive cup, if it is still in one piece, lubrication is called for, and if it is in two pieces, lubricate it the new one when you install it.

I would probably look closely at the other end of the drive shaft as well. I'm not well versed on QL drive lines (I have a 149 and a 782); if your setup is original, it may have a ball bearing (Item #50) in the cup at the hydrostatic pump to help center the drive shaft. Parts Lookup tells me that it depends on which drive shaft is used, see illustration and excerpt below.

Finally, check the condition of the hydro's cooling fan, it should be complete without blades nicked or missing.

When installing the the rubber disks, but sure to use locking nuts (I prefer the all-metal Stover nuts or center-lock nuts; but Nylock nuts will do) and refrain from over-tightening them. My understanding is that you just want to snug them up and only just start to compress the rubber.

Partial Legend for illustration, 1650 drive train:

Tag Part # Description Qty
1 IH-140079-C1 Shaft, Drive
(Replaces IH-61125-C4 on tractors w/Serial No. 622951 & below;
also order disc 722-3000 & four bolts 710-0520)
2 748-3001 Arm, Coupling
3 722-3000 Disc, Flexible Coupling
4 703-0204 FLANGE ASSY-DRIVE
5 719-3027 COUPLING
6 IH-530647-R1 Spacer, Pinion Shaft Gear
(Not required for tractors w/internal wet brakes)
7 741-3004 BUSHING-BALL
8 IH-547749-R1 FAN

710-3005 Bolt, 3/8 X 1-1/4 Type 5 | Not shown
710-0520 Bolt, 3/8 X 1-1/2 Type 5 | Not shown
710-3097 Bolt, 3/8-16 X 1 Sq Nk Crg | Not shown
736-0140 Washer, 13/32 X 13/16 X 16 Ga Znd | Not shown
712-3000 Nut, 3/8-16 Cdp Hex Lock | Not shown
715-3000 Pin, 1/4 X 1-3/8 Hv Coiled Spring | Not shown

50 723-3022 Ball, 5/8 Cr Stl | (Used only with drive shaft IH-61125-C4)

There appears to be more to the story, and perhaps someone with QL experience will drop by to give you some pointers in figuring out which configuration you have and how to go about getting it right.

[fhadderton]

The other end of the shaft has two of the rag joints and my plastic fan is down to one blade. I was thinking of rebuilding it with greasable u joints. I know that the rag joints have worked for years but I dont trust it.

[JayJay]

FHadderton: I would think twice about the U-Joints, I've read reports of people who have tried them, but discovered later that they don't hold up well. Some joints aren't intended to see the RPMs and shock loads of the Cub application. On the other hand, some wise and experienced builders have some success.

I'm going to stick with the rag joints (but keep an eye on them) until I'm certain I have a better (and more cost effective) replacement. Even a Constant Velocity joint, like those used on some of the MTD Super Garden Tractors and other selected models still needs to be maintained (greased) properly-- it doesn't last forever either, and it costs $400 from MTD, although it is still available.

I'm sure other opinions will differ.