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#11
10-28-2012, 05:51 PM
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127 PTO Clutch Removal - what am I missing???
Well, with Hurricane Sandy barreling towards us here in New Jersey, this weekend was spent outside cleaning up, putting things away, trying everything else down and making sure the chainsaw was ready to go. In a perverse way, I often enjoy extremes of weather, but I have to admit that this one has me concerned. I didn't have a chance to try Matt's clutch puller tool, but there's always next weekend.
Matt, I read more on the PTO clutch in the service manual, but it didn't jump out at me where it explained how to remove the clutch button. You hinted that it doesn't come out until after the clutch is removed from the tractor. The entire engine is sitting on the bench right now; I'd say that qualifies as "being out of the tractor", wouldn't you?  Would you (or anyone else) mind giving me a little more detail on how to remove this?Thanks. 
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#12
10-28-2012, 07:26 PM
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Make sure you have all the set screws removed from the PTO. The set screws tighten behind the race, not to the race. If you still have a setscrew in a hole, you will not remove the PTO. Since the engine is on the bench, you can look into each hole and see if there is one setscrew left in place.
If they have all been removed, then the PTO may be rusted to the bearing race. I recommend that you use PB Blaster or liquid wrench sprayed liberally in the center of the PTO behind the center button. There is a snap ring that prevents the PTO from going too far back on the crank shaft. You will need to get PB Blaster behind this snap ring. Let it sit for a couple of hours or days. Then, tap (lightly) the front of the PTO with a hammer against a piece of wood held against the PTO. This may give the PTO some movement and break the rust which may be holding it on. You must make sure that there are no set screws left in the holes!!! When the PTO is removed from the shaft, then you can take the nuts and jam nuts off the back of the PTO. Then you can take it apart and clean it up and rebuild it if necessary. The bearing is your next problem. The locking collar has one or two set screws (of a different size than the PTO set screws, usually). Take them out and take a punch into the empty partially drilled hole to drive the collar clockwise that holds the collar (and bearing) to the crank. The collar and bearing are in a cam configuration, turning the collar the wrong way locks the bearing tighter to the shaft! You will see when it loosens up. Then try to remove the bearing from the crank. This can be when the fun starts! Good luck!
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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