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#11
10-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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Leave it alone, put it back together with new gaskets and enjoy life. Anyting that is in it will end up in the filter or the bottom of the case. If you want to be sure put a magnetic drain plug in it or you can even JB weld a couple magnets inside the case. My race car engine builder used to do that in the lifter valley of the engines he built to pick up valve train stuff before it got into other expensive parts.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL 
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#12
10-10-2012, 10:34 PM
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Yep,
If it works fine, I'd leave it alone as well. Change the fluid and get a CC filter and Hytran and you'll be set. Wondered what was wrong with the hydro cause ya just don't hear of too many going down (unless towed around inappropriately or wrong fluid).
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Josh Diesel Cub Cadets...........
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#13
10-11-2012, 08:35 AM
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Hydro pump
If you have any metal shavings whatsoever in that pump it needs to be taken apart and cleaned well. While apart I use carb cleaner to blow through the tiny holes at the end if all 18 pistons. Be sure not to get anything mixed up and that it goes back together as it came apart. Inside you have the pump block and the motor block each having nine pistons and a valve plate. I always put each assembly in separate containers The main things are the orientation of the charge pump and the pump swashplate orientation. It can be intimidating but is very doable. There are 4 seals that I would replace while you're doing it too. The sponsors should have them. I get mine from Carquest and they seem to work just fine. I'd read the manual before you turn the first bolt to familiarize yourself with the pump and help you prepare. It even gives instructions for a bench block that helps steady the pump while working on it. I have found the hardest thing about doing this is removing the pump swashplate. It has (usually) two 5/8" roll pins on the trunion side and one on the opposite side. The pins on the trunion side HAVE to be driven just so far in order to remove the trunion shaft. I tap a bit and try twisting the shaft after each tap. When it gets free it will let you know with a twist and should come on out. The opposite side is a little easier but the trick is punch the pin to where it is in the shaft completely and the shaft will pull out.
Again, get the manual and get familiar. Good luck.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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