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  #11  
Old 09-28-2012, 02:08 PM
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cjet69 cjet69 is offline
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Originally Posted by ihc353s View Post
have the same Problem at my 123, that i purchased a few Weeks ago. After loosen the Screws of the Engine Oil Pan, the Front Axle falls down to the Ground, with the Bracket. Have a MIG/MAG Welder, but can't weld it, i have a Pacemaker, and i think it's to dangerous for me, i'm little angry. Tomorrow, a Friend will weld it for me, with my Welding Machine.

mfg Georg
I wonder what caused that to happen. Did the tractor have a loader on it at one time? Its nice to have friends to help out when you need it. Thats whats nice about websites like this one, the members who have "been there done that" can get us pointed in the right direction.
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  #12  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:13 PM
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I learned a trick from a farmer (then I later learned why in a college class).

NEVER weld across a tractor frame, make ALL welds with the length of the frame.

It will take a little more thinking, and planning, but, the results will be worth it.

You can almost never stop a weld from cracking, if the bead is placed across the frame.

Weld beads that are positioned with the front to back length of the frame carry very little stress. Weld beads placed across the frame are almost always subjected to enough force to cause cracking.


So the fish plate is very important.

If you can not totally avoid the weld across the frame, design the fish plate to go at an angle, rather than go straight across, that is better, the stress is distributed.

The way the front axle carrier was designed into the wide frames was a design error, they welded right across the flange of the frame, almost a guarantee of a crack.
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  #13  
Old 09-28-2012, 10:42 PM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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WOW what a frame or scrap.It may be better to get another frame and clean and paint that one and swap everything over.

Josh, I cant tell you how much Dave has tought me. Sometimes its way over my head when he talks about changing 3 phase welders into single, but sooner or later ill get it.
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2012, 12:34 AM
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WOW what a frame or scrap.It may be better to get another frame and clean and paint that one and swap everything over.

Josh, I cant tell you how much Dave has tought me. Sometimes its way over my head when he talks about changing 3 phase welders into single, but sooner or later ill get it.
Don't feel too bad ole buddy. A lot of stuff Dave talks about is way over my head, too.
He sure knows a ton of stuff though. Anytime I need help troubleshooting anything from a cub to a dog, I'll call Dave. Remember the show MacGyver? I think his first name was Dave.
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  #15  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:11 PM
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the 123 doesn't had a Loader, the Tractor only had a Mower Deck, but the Seller didn't want to sell it, he will need it for his other Cub Cadet (102).

Saturday, my Friend welded the Frame, he is a good Welder, the 123 is ready for Driving, but i have no Pics, i forgot my Cam at Home, , sorry,

mfg Georg
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  #16  
Old 07-03-2013, 11:49 PM
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Well finally going to fix my cousins 982, the frame is cracked on both sides. He also said the front PTO quit while mowing last fall and wanted to see why his side panels didn't fit. I already found why the PTO quit, it was unplugged. The side panels don't fit because the grille has been pushed back and bent the frame where the grille mounts, should be an easy fix. The frame needs to be cleaned up and then I will figure out what method of repair will work best. Here are a few pics.
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  #17  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:02 AM
rweaver rweaver is offline
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I has a 982 like that here and my way to fix a show tractor is get another frame if its a worker then I would fish plate but don't put any metal inside the frame as when you want to remove the engine the engine plate will catch it they come hard so as it is
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2013, 10:38 AM
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if i were to fix this frame, i would cut some 1/4'' plate to fit the inside of the frame. clean up the crack and bevel the edges. then jack up the tractor to relieve any downward stress that could be pulling the frame apart. weld the crack then heat to relieve the stress. now take your plate and place it on the inside of the frame and drill 4 holes into the plate only. 2 on each side of the crack. weld the plate to the frame including the 4 holes. then heat it all up again. might be over kill for these cubs but that how i like to do things.
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2013, 12:14 PM
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for the input, guy's.
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  #20  
Old 07-06-2013, 01:53 AM
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Got the frame welded up. Just rattle canning for now because he wants to paint it soon. Also straightened the top of the frame where the grille mounts and now the side panels fit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_8681 (Medium).jpg (18.9 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg 100_8680 (Medium).jpg (18.5 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg 100_8682 (Medium).jpg (27.1 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg 100_8683 (Medium).jpg (29.4 KB, 131 views)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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