1650 rear end thread cracked at diff cover bolt :( - Page 2

prskier17 · #11 06-02-2012, 10:56 AM

Thanks for all the advice so far guys. It's actually the middle left bolt... not the top. It's definitely below the fill level of the fluid. I've attached a photo showing this. I agree that a sealing washer would do the trick if I went back to a bolt instead of the stud... otherwise there might be a small leak between the stud and nut through the threads that a sealing washer wouldn't help. I did find this that should work though:

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/984...8-16-aj-6.html

I know that welding cast iron isn't an easy task... but I'm wondering if I found someone with good tig welding skills this might be repairable. Anyone ever done this???

Sam Mac · #12 06-02-2012, 11:14 AM

I would leave it alone and just put a new gasket with some Permatex Ultra Grey silicone on both sides along with a sealing nut or washer. I doubt that it would leak. Was it leaking before?

prskier17 · #13 06-02-2012, 11:30 AM

It was leaking slowly... but the PO did not do much to correct it.

Sasky · #14 06-02-2012, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prskier17

Thanks for all the advice so far guys. It's actually the middle left bolt... not the top. It's definitely below the fill level of the fluid. I've attached a photo showing this. I agree that a sealing washer would do the trick if I went back to a bolt instead of the stud... otherwise there might be a small leak between the stud and nut through the threads that a sealing washer wouldn't help. I did find this that should work though:

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/984...8-16-aj-6.html

I know that welding cast iron isn't an easy task... but I'm wondering if I found someone with good tig welding skills this might be repairable. Anyone ever done this???

I had a 1450 with the same problem mine was the bottom left bolt hole, I welded mine with a cast rod and it was okay, so if you can find a good welder it is fixable.

prskier17 · #15 06-02-2012, 12:17 PM

Sasky,
So you welded material to build up the surface? Did you have to drill/tap and finish the surface to get it flat? I think a sealing nut would work but I'm also a bit anal-retentive and would prefer to have it fixed and not have to look at the stud. I will be using this tractor, but it's mostly a hobby for me and I want to fully restore it. I could use the nut now and repair it later if it really bugs me, but I just spent $70 on Hytran, gasket, and filter and don't want to have to repeat that expenditure.

prskier17 · #16 06-02-2012, 12:35 PM

I have another question for you guys. My 1650 had the gearbox on the back for a tiller. I'm going to keep that off for now while I figure out this issue and I'm going to put the standard drawbar on which will be taken from the 1450 donor tractor I have. My question is: Do I need to replace the 3 bolts that hold the drawbar onto the 1450 with shorter ones if I remove the drawbar??? If I don't do this, isn't that how these housings get cracked??? I don't want two cracked rear ends and I'm hoping to sell the rear end/hydro from the 1450!!! Thanks again... this forum is awesome!

Sasky · #17 06-02-2012, 06:13 PM

Yes I built up the surface then drilled and tapped the hole, and yes you will need shorter bolts if you remove the drawbar.

Jeff in Pa · #18 06-02-2012, 06:41 PM

I would refrain from welding the cast iron housing if at all possible. As a machinist who works with castings, if everything isn't done perfectly with preheat, welding and correct post welding heat retention to allow slow cooling, you will be trying to cut something that's as hard as glass.

It looks like in the picture you are missing just a little bit from the machined surface. If it were mine, I would use Devcon filler or JB Weld to build the surface up and flat file it smooth.

As Sasky wrote, you will need shorter bolts without the tiller mount.

Jeff

CADplans · #19 06-02-2012, 08:02 PM

Just my guess, but, I think the stud is what broke the casting in the first place!!

I would not use a stud, too hard to control how deep it goes.

If you want it to be right, the only way is to replace the housing.

Anything else is a patch. I think replacing it would be just a little more work than welding, and if you are paying a welder, probably the same price!!??

cjet69 · #20 06-02-2012, 08:59 PM

I wonder if my 1450 has the same problem. After filling the Hydro a couple day's ago I noticed some hytran weeping around the left center bolt. I guess I will find out when I pull the cover for the oil change.

I wouldn't be afraid of welding it, a small weld area shouldn't cause stress in the casting when it on the edge like that. JMO. If you don't weld yourself then the Devcon or JB weld might be the way to go.