Paint/rust removal from cast iron

[wshytle]

Mirt54, You might want to go ahead and set up an electrolysis tank. It's something you'll use from now on if you clean a lot of parts or deal with rust. After the initial investment (which isn't much) it's very cost effective; the electrolysis does take time though. There are several write-ups on setting it all up and how to use it. Just remember, the bigger the tank, the bigger the part to be cleaned can be.
Good luck, Wayne

[truckntran]

If you are going to use a power tool stripping your hood a dual action sander or a gear drive 9 inch DA sander with 36 grit at the coarsest will yield good results. And normally I'll get about 90 percent off with the coarse grit and go to 80 grit for the finish stripping. This will minimize sanding scratches...

On the wire brush on an angle grinder ..I use a heavy duty twist cup brush....it has large bristles made from many small bristles twisted together. The more you pay for one it seems the longer they last , altho even the cheap ones from harbor freight will last long enough to say you got your money's worth. If you don't have access to a sandblaster , this setup will get wheels, engine blocks, frames, and tranny housings clean. Don't use it on tin.....

For smaller areas, or getting into crevices where your DA sander can't reach, I use the scotchlock abrasive pads on a die grinder or fast drill. THey get kinda spendy,, look for guys at flea markets selling them cheap.... Also if you have an assortment of HIGH SPEED wire brushes with a 1/4 inch shank for your die grinder, you can finish up all those little spots the big grinder wouldn't get into.

Don't bother buying any of the cheap 99 cent wire wheels at the hardware store (they are probably up to $2.99 now.)If you use them in anything but a slow drill, they will shoot all their wires into you in about 30 seconds if run on a die grinder..

I look in the bins at my local used tool guy for good wire wheels....for a buck or two I can usually get a good used one that will last quite a while. New you may spend $10 each or more for the smaller ones to fit a die grinder.

[mirt54]

I soaked the lower cast nose piece of my 149 for about 8 days using the same muriatic acid mixI had used successfully on badly rusted narrow front rims. Only very minimal paint came off the nose piece. The mix was only about a month old and I kept it closed, but I guess It got weak. I gave up on that method. I'm just wanting to freshen up the hood and nose pieces with some fresh paint and since it'll be my first (non rattle can) paint job, I'm not expecting a show room finish. I'm very picky though, so if I screw it up too bad, I'll probably redo it. , so next it's either the electrolisis or just paint stripper chemicals. I'm thinking for just the nose pieces it's prolly cheaper to go with chemical paint stripper??? On the other hand if I do a good job on the hood and nose, I'll get fired up and want to do at least the rear fender pan too....and then the frame...and then get another cub and do it all again, lol Here's a picture just after I got the cub in July

[wshytle]

Mirt54,

You won't regret getting an electrolysis tank set up. One of the 3 tractors I'm working on right now is a 149. I "cooked" the lower grill casting for several hours using elctrolysis and it was easy to clean afterwards. Any paint that remains after a steel brushing can be sanded and painted over because it still has a good bond and there's no rust under the paint. If there is rust under the paint it will come off pretty easily. The elect. process attacks the rust with current and it will turn a dark color. I wash the part with a brush and degreaser after "cooking" and this takes care of most of the destroyed rust. Any remaining rust will require a steel brush or sandpaper. You'll get a feel for different types of parts after you use the tank for a while.

Good luck, Wayne

[johncub7172]

i dont think that it is necessary that total paint be removed from cast iron, unless there is rust, water, peeling, ect. under the paint. as i found out, a good paint job certainly dont need be stripped to bare metal, unless your metal is scratched up, rusty, and knicked alot, it would be best. i had good results with a palmsander, a 4" flap wheel, and good old fashon elbow-grease! but to try and pull all the paint off the textured cast is realy not what i would do other wise.

[thenrie]

Just thought I'd add my two-bits. I have had good success blasting sheet metal (and anything else) with 70 grit aluminum oxide. It will remove paint and rust without warping the metal. Cuts rust very well. Expensive, though. You can buy it in 40# containers at Harbor Freight. I use it in my blasting cabinet for smaller parts, but I have also used it on the frame and hood through a pressurized blaster with good results. It doesn't heat up or peen the metal like sand does. Leaves the metal white, clean, and ready for wash, primer, and paint.

Additionally, if you're just removing paint, blasting with soda does a great job and leaves clean metal with a residue that inhibits rust (no flash-rust after blasting), which washes right off in paint prep. It cuts paint quickly and doesn't damage metal, but doesn't do well at removing rust. You can buy 50# bags of it at HF (purple bag).

I plan to see if the blasting soda will work for electrolysis, since I'm currently out of aluminum oxide, but have almost a full bag of soda left.

[Mizar N68X]

YUP! A BIG bag of ro-locks from the swap meet venders work good for everything except tight crevises.. Oh and maybe wheels....

[young enthusiest]

I use sand from my dugout in my sandblaster. I just sift it through a window screen. It's coarser than silica sand, but leaves a layer of dirt on the part. I use a cheap $40 dollar sandblaster hooked to my 120psi compressor. I did an entire tractor with this set up, no warped sheetmetal or anything.

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by young enthusiest

I use sand from my dugout in my sandblaster. I just sift it through a window screen. It's coarser than silica sand, but leaves a layer of dirt on the part. I use a cheap $40 dollar sandblaster hooked to my 120psi compressor. I did an entire tractor with this set up, no warped sheetmetal or anything.

I would stick with sandblasting media...using other things is a health hazard. The cheapest stuff I've found is made from iron production slag, and is like $8 for a 50-lb bag. For that price it isn't worth the risk of using sand not intended for sandblasting.

[jeff k.]

It's not a cub, but i just got done sand blasting and painting it. I haven't had real good luck w wire brushes. I prefer sand blasting.