Original - replaced clutch shaft front bearing - Page 2

Matt G. · #11 09-26-2009, 08:34 PM

I'm not very familiar with the original's clutch, but it looks to me like the clutch shaft bushing is binding on the driveshaft.

gcbailey · #12 09-26-2009, 08:48 PM

Here are a few pictures also, don't know if they will help or not. I have to forewarn you all I'm in no way a mechanic. I'm just the IT guy who's always loved this stuff. So bear with me. That's my disclaimer.

Yosemite Sam · #13 09-26-2009, 11:23 PM

I watched your video, then went out to watch the travel on one of mine as I pushed the pedal down. The movement of the bearing fork appears to be about the same, yours may be just a little less. Anyway, the difference between yours and mine is that as soon as that fork starts to move (on mine) it starts moving the bearing back, there may be the thickness of a business card of travel in the fork before it moves the bearing, but that is all, and there is NO pushing the collar back and forth with your finger AT ALL.

I don't know what the "fix" is for you, but that bushing should stay inside the collar all the time. It almost looks like the clutch rod is WAY too long, but one turn wouldn't make all that much difference.

Cub61 · #14 09-27-2009, 01:37 AM

GCBailey, I also watched your YouTube vid. I agree with Yosemite Sam. The Clutch Rod seems to be too long or in other words it needs to be shorten in length by simply screwing it in. I noticed you weren't having to apply a decent amount of pressure to press the Brake/Clutch Pedal with your hand. That automatically tells me that your clutch rod needs to be adjusted. Due to the fact that on my OL' Girl, you need to put a little muscle if you want to press the Clutch/Brake Pedal by hand. And I also noticed one more thing. The Bearing Lock Collar needs to be placed up against the front of the bearing, not away from it. This could also be one of your problems also. But for starters, let start with shortening the Clutch Rod and we'll move on from there. Keep us posted good buddy!!!!

MATT

gcbailey · #15 09-27-2009, 08:45 AM

I'll take a look at that today. The only pressure that I feel in the pedal is from I guess you call it the return spring connected to the underside of the pedal. My 4 yr old can press on the pedal with his hand as easy as he wants.

When you say the collar lock needs to be toward the front of the bearing, is that toward the engine or toward the transmission? I just got this back in the first of Aug, the guy I got it from had let it sit for 5 years, he was going to restore it, but started a Ford 8N instead.

gcbailey · #16 09-27-2009, 01:00 PM

OK did some turning and now I'm moving the pressure spring, I think that's it, a little when I press in on the clutch. Before it wasn't moving it any. It appears that I've got some brakes now too. I'm going to play around a little more, but this is progress....

gcbailey · #17 09-27-2009, 02:07 PM

Sorry for another post... I got reading in the owner's manual vs. the chasis manual and see there's a difference. The owner's has .020 -.030 distance between the collar and the yoke. The chasis has .005 - .030 distance... Anyways, I think I've made some decent progress, if anyone is interested in checking out a couple of videos I've put up at my youtube www.youtube.com/gcbailey34 the last two shows the adjustment I made on the collar and shortening the clutch rod, the second is me going through the gears and with the brake working.... I can definitely tell a difference in applying hand and foot pressure to the pedal now. I really really appreciate your guys help!!! I've got a bunch of other questions about this thing to make sure I've got it in good everyday shape.

Cub61 · #18 09-27-2009, 11:53 PM

Hey gcbailey!!!! How's it going good buddy!!!!

I checked out your vids and you're on a good track. Keep shortening up that Clutch Rod until you no longer here any gear grinding what so ever. Just remember that the Clutch Disc will always continue to turn, but its the Drive Shaft along with the Pressure Plates that have to come to a complete stop before you can change gears. If not, you'll continue to grind gears every time you change gears. What you're aiming for is to get those two pressure plates far away as possible from the Clutch Disc. By the way gcbailey, if your cub as a lot or slight jerking motion during take off. You might want to adjust your brakes. The problem is that your clutch is engaging before the brakes have been let off. So in other words, you have to get the two components to work together in order for the jerking motion to stop during take off. If you have anymore questions, don't hesitate to ask. We're all here to help each other out. Take care good buddy!!!!

MATT

gcbailey · #19 09-28-2009, 04:16 PM

Thanks Matt!!

There is a slight jerking on takeoff if I just let off the brake. If I ease it off there is none. Does that sound about right?

On an unrelated item.... The front axle, should their be play back and forth, would this be from worn pivot bolt? Is that something you can just tighten or do I need to find something?

Cub61 · #20 09-28-2009, 04:54 PM

Hey gcbailey!!! How's it going good buddy!!!!

That sounds just about right on the take off. That means everything is working together.

As for the front axle. There shouldn't be any play what so ever on the front axle. Sounds like the Pivot Bolt my be loose or it might just simply be worn out. But if it is loose, just get you two wrenches(I can't remember what size though) and place one on the Hex Bolt and the place the other wrench on the Hex Nut. And tighten it until the front axle no longer moves back and forth. But if it still moves back and forth after you have tighten it, that just means you either have a worn out front axle or a worn out Pivot Bolt. But let's go ahead and tighten up that Pivot Bolt first and then we'll move on from there.Keep us posted. Take care good buddy!!!!

MATT