getting to the trunion

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by Methos

You can get to it by removing the fenders and seat pan but if you try and weld it in place you stand a good chance of getting the trunion too hot and damaging the seal on the hydro pump. That's why people split the tractor to remove the trunion and repair it without cooking the seal.

I placed a cold water soaked rag around the seal area when I welded the trunion on my 1250 to act as a heat sink. The key was to just make a few small welds at a time. Measure, file a bit, weld a bit. It worked well for me.

[jeryan149]

Here is a simple way to fix a sloppy trunion if you can't or do not want to weld up the bracket.

I used 3/4" round stock x 1/2" long. Bore a .375 diameter hole .415 deep to make a pair of "Caps" for a single spring that is approximately the same force as the stronger of the 2 stock springs.

I did this to my 149, my brothers 129 - both workers (grass & snow) with great results. Anyone else tried something like this before?

John

[cmatthew]

so i took off the fenders and seat. pushed the drive lever all the way forward which brought the trunion all the way back just clearing the tunnel. giving me enough room to weld. havent welded it yet. but i plan on doing the same thing, using a cold rag and just doing a little spot welding to fill the gaps.

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by jeryan149

Here is a simple way to fix a sloppy trunion if you can't or do not want to weld up the bracket.

I used 3/4" round stock x 1/2" long. Bore a .375 diameter hole .415 deep to make a pair of "Caps" for a single spring that is approximately the same force as the stronger of the 2 stock springs.

I did this to my 149, my brothers 129 - both workers (grass & snow) with great results. Anyone else tried something like this before?

John

I've never seen that done before. More up close pics would be good. Looks like a good fix.

[cmatthew]

the two valves on top of the hydro with the push buttons which is actuated by a little flapper on the tow-drive lever. what keeps those pushed done instead of holding the lever with my hand in the tow position?

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by cmatthew

the two valves on top of the hydro with the push buttons which is actuated by a little flapper on the tow-drive lever. what keeps those pushed done instead of holding the lever with my hand in the tow position?

A Lever Retaining Bracket # 35 in the pic below. You could make one out of some small angle and a bolt with nylock nut. Position it to catch the lever where it is pushing down on the buttons. It should be loose enough to rotate. Or if you don't want to take the chance of the buttons sticking on you, install some auto valves that will unload after a few minutes of sitting with the motor off, allowing you to move the tractor. A good park brake is needed with these if you park on inclines.

lever.jpg

[cmatthew]

thanx for the pic. that ittle tab is there but the lever does not go down that far. but it does push the buttons down. i will have to look at it again. something may be pushed or bent in the wrong direction.

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by cmatthew

thanx for the pic. that ittle tab is there but the lever does not go down that far. but it does push the buttons down. i will have to look at it again. something may be pushed or bent in the wrong direction.

Can you get a pic of your lever and the tab. Both pushing and not pushing on the buttons? I don't have a hydro that uses the lever or I would get you some pics.

[cmatthew]

yeh, will do

[cmatthew]

first two pics are in drive and second two are tow
i think someone prior forced the lever too hard in drive and bent the tab/flapper attached to the lever. see how the lever travels way above the drive sticker and wont even go down to the tow sticker. whatcha think?