Made it home safe!

[Merk]

Cam gear cover comes off next

Breather cover is next

breather has a few layers

Breather parts laid out on workbench

Camshaft comes out next. The pin holding the cam needs drived to flywheel side

Make sure you remove and keep the shim(s) from the flywheel side of the camshaft.

The tapets are next to be removed. I mark the tapets with the letter E(exhaust) and I(intake) so I reinstall them in the same spot.

Next is the valves and valve springs. I used this tool to remove the springs

Valve spring compress

[Merk]

Points push rod should pull out of the block. This one didn't. Had to push it towards the center of the block. End of push rod was mushroom. Needs replaced.

Only thing left is governor gear.

Remove the screw under the governor arm

Make sure you remove shims and bushing

I like to tag and bag as I remove parts.

Most interresting thing is the K301 marking in the block

[johncub7172]

Merk

Looks fantastic! Thankyou for the documentation. At some point I would like to muster a little courage and try my k161 rebuild, not for a while though.

[Merk]

I like to check the crankshaft and cylinder bore before it goes to the machine shop. Here is the main tools I need to use:
Micrometers and bore gage

Kohker service manual

Sheet from Kohler to record before and after measurements

First thing I like to check is the crankpin for wear. I check crankpin in 6 places. They are the flywheel side, center and the pto side.

I measure 90 degrees to the first measurement.

New crank journal measurement is 1.500/1.4995
Max out of round is .0005
Max wear limit is 1.499
Max taper is .001
5 out of the 6 measurements were 1.500. One was 1.4995.
Crank is good.

[ACecil]

Thans for the pics, Dale! I've been following your progress on the engine.

[Merk]

The cylinder bore is next. I like to check the cylinder bore in 6 places.....top middle and bottom of the bore. Them I measure the bore 90 degrees from the first measurement.
First measurement:

90 degrees to first measureemnt:

Sometimes it is easier to check the bottom of the cylinder bore by measuring the bore from the bottom side:

My gages are old school. I have to use a snap gage in the clylinder bore to get actual distance. Them I will use the correct micrometer to get the actual measurement:

Bore specs for a K241 are 3.2515/3.2505
max wear is 3.254
Max out of round is .003
Max taper is .001

Measurements were:
top inline with crank: 3.253
middle inline with crank: 3.254
bottom inline with crank: 3.253
top 90 degree-crank: 3.2525
middle 90 degree-crank: 3.255
bottom 90 degree-crank: 3.252

Bore is out of spec in the middle of the cylinder. Motor needs bored .010.

All the measurements were recorded and a copy will be given to owner when he picks up the motor.

[Merk]

I double check my measurements with this gage:

Using gage:

I will keep using old school gages. They are easier to set up.

[johncub7172]

A huge thankyou to Only Cub Cadets and my friend Dale. You guys are GREAT!

[johncub7172]

Allen, If you would like to move the thread to a more infoumative/ tec. topic your more than welcome. I cannot describe how happy I am to share a learning experience with my friends at Only Cub Cadet and Dale.

Just a big thankyou Only Cub Cadet.net! I want this to be Dale's workmanship thread and not mine. Title as you wish Allen. Thankyou, John.

[4SPEED]

now I know where to go for engine work, if needed.