1650 cranks slow - usually - Page 2

fleetlines · #11 01-31-2012, 05:53 PM

Roland, that is a better picture. If it is proportionate, that tang inside may need bent because mine don't lift that far for the ACR. I did lap the valves recently and it does lift for the ACR but I have no way to measure the lift.

The good news (if you want to call it that), I discovered the starter was faulty. I swapped it out with my other used one and they do not work the same. One cranked better than the other. Turning the starter by hand it had a fair bit of internal grinding. Just in handling it it stopped the grind sound. I popped it back in and she fired up but not right away. Now, today we were up into the 50's so temperature could still play a roll but I believe my problem resides in my starter. Are these starters for the K341 serviceable or should I just get a new one?

The bad news, I've developed a new problem but a simple one I believe. After it ran for 10 or 15 minutes I shut it down. I tried to fire it back up and got nothing. No power to the starter at all. I measured. I suspect the clutch safety switch but it could be a poor connection somewhere. I did jump straight to the starter and it worked so I'm thinking the connections are alright. Otherwise it wouldn't have worked with the bypass because the key has to be in the on position. Am I thinking right?

Curtis

IACubCadet · #12 01-31-2012, 06:05 PM

If it wont turn over from the key, but will turn over from the starter by bypassing the key, you have a connection problem, or the safety switch needs cleaned. Check all of your connections.

ol'George · #13 01-31-2012, 06:53 PM

On the starter, off the top of my head, I'm thinking that is a perm magnet starter (could be wrong as it's been a while since I worked on your model) but the magnets tend to come unglued and/or break in these starters and that could be your problem. take it apart and inspect it, or it just could be worn brushes.
Scribe a line on the starter case, so it goes back together the same way it was.
The brushes are a pain on reassembly if you don't make little "C" or "U" shaped pieces of coffee can to hold them in while you assemble it.

R Bedell · #14 01-31-2012, 07:07 PM

George's memory is correct. I have had the glued on Magnets come loose on my 1450 starter before. Putting the brushes in, are a PITA. For me, it is a new starter or the repair shop. It is just better for my nerves...

jbrewer · #15 01-31-2012, 07:13 PM

Is it the Delco S/G?

You can see what you're getting into in my "O" thread. Yes, bearings and brushes are available quite reasonably. Mine cost $17 for 2 new sealed bearings and 2 new brushes . It's a pretty easy job if your Cub hasn't been sitting in the rain rusting for 9 years. :-)

AFAIK, the end pieces can only go back one way. ... at least on the delco I'm working on.

John

R Bedell · #16 01-31-2012, 07:20 PM

The Quietlines did NOT have a Delco-Remy S/G.

fleetlines · #17 01-31-2012, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

On the starter, off the top of my head, I'm thinking that is a perm magnet starter (could be wrong as it's been a while since I worked on your model) but the magnets tend to come unglued and/or break in these starters and that could be your problem. take it apart and inspect it, or it just could be worn brushes.
Scribe a line on the starter case, so it goes back together the same way it was.
The brushes are a pain on reassembly if you don't make little "C" or "U" shaped pieces of coffee can to hold them in while you assemble it.

I'll be opening it up to see what's going on. I'd rather do the brushes and put that $ into something else. Thanks for the tip on scribing it first and cutting the can to slip it back in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell

George's memory is correct. I have had the glued on Magnets come loose on my 1450 starter before. Putting the brushes in, are a PITA. For me, it is a new starter or the repair shop. It is just better for my nerves...

I think I'll pull it apart and see how hard it is go get together before I decide if I'll do it myself. I expect I will and if I do, at least we'll get pics on here of the process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer

Is it the Delco S/G?

You can see what you're getting into in my "O" thread. Yes, bearings and brushes are available quite reasonably. Mine cost $17 for 2 new sealed bearings and 2 new brushes . It's a pretty easy job if your Cub hasn't been sitting in the rain rusting for 9 years. :-)

AFAIK, the end pieces can only go back one way. ... at least on the delco I'm working on.

John

I've got three machines with the S/G. Fortunately they are good. I'd much rather lay out the $17 than have to pay for a new, used, or rebuilt one.
Below is a pic of the weaker starter. I've done brushes before so that shouldn't be to awful bad. I don't expect much trouble with getting that electrical situation hunted out either. I't always cranked when it should have even if it was slow. I checked the connections recently so they should still be good. I'm really thinking it's just the safety switch. I have one that is good so we'll see.
Thanks guys,
Curtis

ol'George · #18 01-31-2012, 11:05 PM

Ya that is a perm magnet style, look Carefully @ the 2 pole magnets, if they are broken anywhere it will be real down on power.
I have one still running after 10 years that I re glued on my ol'Green GT..
but if the magnet is broken, it's time for another.
Epay had some new ones fair priced, not like mother Cub or Deere.

fleetlines · #19 02-01-2012, 04:52 PM

I tracked down the electrical problem. The clutch safety switch checked out alright so off comes the tins, tank, and heat shield. I start chasing wires and connections and it's checking out alright then it hits me.

Since I've gotten it I had to depress the toggle on the PTO switch after use if I shut it down. That's all it needed. I haven't used the PTO since I put the blade on. I suppose someone walking by flipped the switch. That should have been easier than getting the clutch on the O to release which I thought was going to be difficult but I had to turn it into and event. Now lets see how hard I can make this starter repair.

I called NAPA and got a price of $178.00 for a new one so I believe a repair is in order if possible.
Curtis

fleetlines · #20 02-01-2012, 10:09 PM

I opened up the starter. The one brush was worn to the wire and the wire came out. The magnets were fine. I took the other apart and the magnets were broke but the brushes were good. I cleaned it up and swapped the ends with the brushes. Used a piece of card stock to help hold the brushes to get it together. I cut a slit in it for the shaft to slide it out after the thing was together. Not very difficult after it was figured out. It started several times. I'm not convinced the ACR is set correctly but it seems alright. Thanks for everything everyone.