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#11
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Are you referring to an air impact wrench? At this stage of the game, I am expecting to replace the steering box anyway...or at least do a rebuilt on it...so please do explain further the application you mentioned. I very much would like to try it, but I guess I need some specific instructions on what the tool is, and how to apply it.
Thanks very much for giving me another bit of inspiration to deal with this vexing problem jim |
#12
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Every one gave you good advice so far. By now the threads are probaly gone buy if not get a 5/8 i I think 18 tread nut and bolt. Remove the steering wheel bolt. Put on the 5/8 bolt and nut. Run the bolt to the top of the shaft and the nut should hold both steering wheel and 5/8. Just snug the bolt with a wrench. Sit on the seat and put your knees on the back side of the steering wheel with force pushing the wheel to you. Get a BFH and hit away on the bolt. I have never failed this way.
But if the shaft is junk by now just cut it in half above the tower. Good luck keep us posted. |
#13
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The shaft threads remain in very good condition. I do know enough to protect the threads with the nut before hammering away....which I have done repeatedly as per my previous posts....and I also employed an intermediate piece of steel to hammer on to further protect the nut and threads.
I Merely ended up with very sore legs. Support for the shaft would have to be infinitely more robust than flesh can provide, and so far, I have been unable to invent such a rigid support. This is not being an easy removal that would allow such a cushioned support as legs. Legs have the effect of significantly softening the hammer blows. But I thank you for the suggestions. jim |
#14
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You are not trying to support the shaft with flesh!!
You are just trying to change its position. There is some up and down motion in the shaft (slop). You are just trying to get the steering wheel AND shaft in the UP position before you hit it. If you hit the shaft while both the shaft and wheel are in the up position, hopefully the shaft will go down, and the wheel stays up. It is kind of like driving a nail through a board. If you start in the down position, the impact force just transfers to the frame. |
#15
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If that's the case just cut the shaft and wheel off and buy a steering column because the lower half has to be junk by now. And since it's on a loader it's probably worn out anyway. When you hit the top down you put a lot of stress on the aluminum lower section.
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#16
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Jim-
Have you tried the bolt and nut method? I have a 4" or 5" long 5/8-18 grade eight bolt and regular size grade eight nut (not the thin nut like a jam nut). Just screw the nut down until it bottoms on the steering wheel then back it off 1/16" to 1/8". While holding the nut screw the bolt in until it bottoms on the shaft and snug it up a tad...not too much, just snug. With upward pressure on the steering wheel (knees) tap/hit the bolt. It may take a few tries but I've never been let down. Keep an eye on the gap you provided. You might need to back it off once but the gap I mentioned usually does the trick. When the gap disappears the steering wheel has moved. I have heard of steering wheels that were just too rusted even for this method but I haven't come across one yet. Good luck. |
#17
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Soak it, Soak it, and Soak it some more, with PB blaster. I had a wheel on a 782 that wouldn't come off. I worked on that wheel for 2 weeks soaked it 3 times a day pulled on it, beat on it, yelled at it, swore at it, just about everything you could do for 2 weeks. I spent about 3 hours on it one night and had myself at wits end, gave up and said I'll cut it off in the morning I'm done with it. I went down the next morning got out the saw set everything up, and thought I'm gonna yank on this thing one more time. Standing beside the tractor I grabbed the wheel and pulled as hard as I could. That wheel came off so easy I almost went a** over tin cup. Landed on the work bench, and thought ot myself what just happened
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2013 cub cadet GTX 2100 w/IH weights 1984 cub cadet 1282 w/#2 cart, plow, IH weights 1970 IH cub cadet 73 w/fenders Haban 402d sickle bar 1966 IH cub cadet 102x2 1966 IH cub cadet 71 pull start w/Fenders IH sweeper, Brinly Gard N Cart 1965 IH cub cadet 100 w/Fenders hydro lift Brinly Gard N Cart, 3 point sleeve hitch Brinly plow sleeve hitch blade #1 cart 1965 IH cub cadet 70 w/fenders and snow plow 1961 IH Cub Cadet Original #3646 w/fenders 3 point, IH rear blade, non trip snow plow |
#18
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Yeah, I couldn't believe that! You never know! ![]() |
#19
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Hey guys, make no mistake about it...I fully understand the principle of supporting the wheel on my legs while it, and the column, are in the up position...and of course with the lower end of the steering box completely disconnected from the frame. However, try as I may, pounding the hell out of it with a 2 or 3 pound hammer.....it remains in place.
I intend to continue soaking it with Blaster, and hitting it, and cursing at it...until such time as succeed, or feel it necessary to grind away the wheel hub, and scrapping it,...along with whatever else needs to be replaced. Still wailing away at it.....LOL....for now. Thanks to all once again. Jim |
#20
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http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...steering+wheel An air hammer is an air powered hammer (I'm sure you gathered that ![]()
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics IH 982 Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind 50C Deck 42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade 41" IH Rear Blade QA42A Snowthrower |
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