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#11
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Yeah. A three-point with a hitch adapter would be the way to go, but this 682 is going to end up with a backhoe on the back and a bucket on the front, so I'm not going to spend the money for a three-point for it. It would have to be a manual lift anyway, because the 682 doesn't have hydraulics. I expect I'll just be careful and not try to use the 682 to move my horse trailer around. Then again, looks like I could run a steel strap, maybe a 1"X3/16", from the frame, where a three-point would attach, to the back of the upright part of the hitch mount and bolt it in place. That would remove the leverage completely and move the stress to the frame. Then it would simply be a matter of watching the tongue weight.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#12
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That would definately help to keep stress off the bottom half of the transaxle. Perfect points to use in the frame, too!
![]() Nate
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics IH 982 Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind 50C Deck 42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade 41" IH Rear Blade QA42A Snowthrower |
#13
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![]() Quote:
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Cub 108 Cub 1650 Cub 1000 Cub 682 Super Cub 2072 |
#14
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Hehe. I can imagine. That's probably a story you can chuckle about now, but was no funny thing while it was happening!
So, last weekend, I installed new (used, of course) exhaust manifolds and muffler and a new hydro fan on the driveshaft. Also installed new spark plugs. My manual says .025 on the spark gap, but that sure seems narrow. The plugs I pulled out were actually in great shape, probably recently changed out by the PO. The gap was about .035, which is about how they come out of the box, and it was running fine. I set the new plugs at .025, but I'm not noticing any difference. Any thoughts on point gap for the KT17 Series 1?
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#15
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Start your point gap at 0.018 to 0.020.
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Cub 108 Cub 1650 Cub 1000 Cub 682 Super Cub 2072 |
#16
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Thanks.
I just had my first disappointment with the 682. Since I have fixed all the little issues I found, I decided it was time to drive it around a bit to warm it up and change the trans fluid and the engine oil. When it came to changing the engine oil....Argh!!! I can't get the plug out!!! I ended up using my 1/2" drive ratchet and just stripped the corners off the bolt head. Why in the heck would somebody tighten an oil plug that tight???!!! My next move is to try biting it with a pair of vice grips and see if I can remove it. If that fails, I'll just pump out the oil and change it that way until I get a chance to try to drill it and remove it with an ez-out. As far as the trans, it was about 2 quarts low, but it looks pretty good inside. There was some gummy stuff where moisture had gathered a little, but not bad. Not like some of the pics I've seen posted. Filled it to the check hole with Hy-Tran. Good to go.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#17
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Just a friendly reminder to everybody who does their own servicing. HAND TIGHT ON THE TRANS FILTER!!!!!! NO NEED TO USE A FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN IT!!!!!!!!!!
![]() Don't ask how that came up.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
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