Hydro "not working" - Page 2

red56turbo · #11 12-22-2011, 04:56 PM

Pop off the tunnel cover and rotate the motor by hand. Look to see if the drive shaft turns the hydro pump. If not, sheared spirol pin. If it turns the hydro pump, you could always pull the plug on the back cover and see if hytran runs out. Otherwise, you can stick a finger in there and check for fluid or stick a piece of clean wire into the plug hole to do a quick level check. Really isn't a way to check the hydro non running. The hydros are bullet proof. Go into the deal as if the hydro is bad and price accordingly. Then if it is as simple as the sheared pin, you are good to go. Got my fingers crossed for you that it is the sheared pin so you end up with it. Good luck.

red56turbo · #12 12-22-2011, 05:00 PM

Another thing to consider is many of these old cubs still sport their original hydro filters and hytran. Some were changed and the wrong filter put on and ATF put in 'em. The hytran turns to sludge as it pulls water out of the oil. Could be a plugged filter as well. I've heard of guys getting hydros that didn't work. Changed to fluid and filter with hytran and a Cub Cadet filter and were good to go. Maybe another option.

Flatbedford · #13 12-22-2011, 05:02 PM

The tractor is a little over an hour from me,and I don't have much time on my hands these days, so I'll have to make my decision right there and then. I'll show up with my truck, some tools, ramps, and some cash and hope I make the right choice.

Jrobert · #14 12-22-2011, 08:12 PM

If I were you I would just get it. Make sure for the right price. I just picked up a 1450 from Indiana not running flat tires... Missing some bolts. Got the bolts cleaned the carb and now I am ready for snow! I paid $180 with a spare running engine. 14hp kholer. I would check out what exactly the cables were holding up and ask about that lift. Maybe after he parked he just tied up the deck? I'd offer him $100 and if the transmission is shot... And thats a huge IF. You can part it out and sell on ebay/craigslist. And make some money out of it.

Most likely it will take a day or two to get running right, (if you are handy) Then you will have a tractor that will last forever!

Flatbedford · #15 12-27-2011, 09:54 AM

I got it yesterday. It runs with a few shots of starter fluid so I know it has spark and compression. Not sure about fuel supply. The drive shaft is intact and is turning the pump. There is fluid in it. I did not spend much time with it yet. I started another thread on it here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=51505

Flatbedford · #16 12-29-2011, 03:49 PM

What's the best way to change the hytran? Do I have to do a couple changes to flush the whole system of the old stuff? Is there any way to bleed the lift cylinder? Should I remove the hydro line to the cylinder and manually close it to push out the fluid? What have you all done?

CHWNY · #17 12-29-2011, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flatbedford

What's the best way to change the hytran? Do I have to do a couple changes to flush the whole system of the old stuff? Is there any way to bleed the lift cylinder? Should I remove the hydro line to the cylinder and manually close it to push out the fluid? What have you all done?

The best way is remove the cover plate and axle tubes and clean out all the muck. I don't think you will flush it out otherwise.

Flatbedford · #18 12-29-2011, 04:16 PM

I was planning on the removing the cover plate. What is involved in pulling the axle tubes?

_DX3_ · #19 12-29-2011, 04:34 PM

Remove the inner C clips from the end of the axle and pull the axle out.

Flatbedford · #20 12-30-2011, 10:07 PM

I got the engine running today and it was driving a little. I think the release valves are still sticking a bit and it surely needs new hytran and filter.