Model 125 loose front starter pulley / PTO clutch issue???

[CHWNY]

TIP #1)I use Q-tips W/plastic stems they fit most spray cans. just nip off the cotton ends or leave one end on and use it as an applicator.
TIP #2) If you use the Q-tip for it's intended purpose first, there might be no need for PB cuz that will lube lots of stuff!!

[darkminion_17]

Thats a good tip on the Q tip.Saves that can of gold stuff from going to waste.

[capt jim]

Hey guys.....never satisfied with the status quo, I used some CA glue......always on hand for my R/C airplanes hobby....and permanently glued a little 4" wd40 spray tube into the PB Blaster nozzle.
Now the applicator tube will never get blown away from the nozzle.
Still not good enough....I found another slightly larger plastic tube and CA glued it onto the wd40 tube. Now I have a "dedicated" Blaster tube that is about 14" in overall length, easily bends into any odd angle needed, reaches into tight spots with surgical precision, and will absolutely never blow off the can while in use.
However, all this inventive genius not withstanding....the set screws are still quite frozen in position.
I may have to remove the PTO clutch in order to really have a good close up, wide angle view, at the problem. And that isn't going to be easy.
Since I have that wonderful Danco loader on the machine....working up front is terribly inconvenient. The clutch also has set screws....three sets of two in each hole, and there is no reason, other than wishful thinking, for them to be any anymore easily removable. And so the saga continues.....
Jim

[capt jim]

Days have passed, and all the PB Blaster has done little or nothing...neither has my judicious hammering on them to shock them into submission.
Now I am entering phase 2...or is it phase 3...I have lost track. LOL.
I have removed the massive front casting that they may call a grill.....but at 40 or so pounds....it is more than just a grill. This gives me much greater access to the offending screws. Over the next day or so I will attempt to drill them out. This should be fun.
The pic's are probably self explanatory, but the big yellow thing is what I am calling the grill, and the other pic is the now much more accessible dirty work area. I'll degrease it tomorrow before beginning my "machining" work.
More to follow.
Jim

[_DX3_]

It will probably go a lot easier if you go ahead and remove the PTO clutch. It has to come off anyway to remove the PTO bearing and bearing retainer to get the pulley off.

[capt jim]

The clutch has to come off too. I really want to see everything inside there before I put this little monster back together. I have discovered that the clutch set screws also are frozen in place...hence the plan to drill everything out.....If I can.
jim

[CADplans]

From looking at the condition of the rest of the tractor, I am surprised to hear you are having so much trouble with the set screws.

Normally there would be more corrosion on other parts of the machine.

If you are going to drill anyway, why not try one of those cordless impact drivers??

I have a cheap ($100) Milwaukee, that thing is AMAZING!!

I would go get the right bit and try the impact driver if it were mine.

I just took apart a well rusted 108, that driver got every fastener loose except for the lug nuts and the tread bolts.

I didn't try it on the clutch, yet!

Good luck.

[Matt G.]

I'm with CADplans, those cannot be stuck that bad. Drilling them out should be an absolute LAST resort, as there's a high likelihood that you'll mess up the threaded holes in the clutch by doing so.

I have removed clutches that were on hoodless tractors stored outside for years and consequently very rusted. The key here is patience. PB blaster sometimes needs a week or more to work, and any other cleaning you can do is helpful. Hint: dental pick. Make sure all the crap is out of the hex recess in the setscrew, and use a high-quality (and not ball-ended) allen wrench to remove the screw. Tap it in with a hammer, and use a vice grip on the allen wrench for more leverage. The are usually fairly tight, even with no rust, so you need more leverage than a typical allen wrench can offer. A handheld impact driver may also be helpful. If you mess up the hex in the screw, there is a Torx bit that'll fit and give you a second chance. An EZ-out may provide a third chance...there is a size of those that'll grip correctly once the hex is worn. Out of a dozen clutches or more I have removed, I have drilled out a total of ONE setscrew, and only because the PO of the tractor messed up the hex beforehand.

[capt jim]

Thanks for the updates. I guess I will hold off on drilling, and use more Blaster, and allen key hammering. It can't hurt. The Torx bit sounds like a very good second line of attack. I will have to get some Torx drivers that I can hammer into the hex screw for a good solid grip. ...or maybe even try them in my hammer drill...in reverse of course. I am thinking that this machine may have been some ones restoration project...at least the paint looks to be that good...but perhaps they did not get down to the insides of things...like these clutch and pulley set screws.
While working on the starter/generator issues, I discovered the rear mounting bolt for the s/g had been broken off. I pulled the S/G, and then removed the S/G mounting bracket holding the broken off bolt. With the bracket removed it was a snap to drill into that broken off bolt. Then with a torch, and an E-Z out...that became a good clean fix. It's nice when the offending part can be placed on the workbench, or on a drill press. LOL.
More updates to follow.....
jim

[jbrewer]

The real fun starts when you get to remove a broken Torx bit or snapped off "EZ out" .



Cast iron really rusts well, doesn't it, but that photo shows a machine that looks like it's spent a lot of time indoors. PBblaster does take time, rap it, blast with blaster, wait...repeat ....

John