2284 runs then stops - Page 2

timbo2 · #11 04-30-2011, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl_NH

Tim,

I dont know the 2284 but I think it has the tank under the seat? You might be pulling a vacuum on the fuel tank due to a plugged vent on the cap? I had this issue with neighbors B&S engine - plugged fuel cap vent - it would run for 20 minutes then sputter and die.

Took some time to figure that one out..good luck

Thanks Carl,

Yes it has the 5 gal tank in 2 sections under the seat. I had heard of the vacuum idea before and tried it with the gas cap off and had the same results. Also drained the tank from the fuel line past the fuel filter and flow seemed fine.

I just came if from working on it and it isn't the fuel pump either.

I might check out the carb re-build document in the reference section of this website. I've never been that deep into one of these machines before so I'm abit apprehensive. This is a spare though so I can take my time.

Thanks for your ideas I can use them all.

I've been to Littleton NH a few times for family reunions, love it there!

take care,
Tim

timbo2 · #12 04-30-2011, 10:02 PM

Update from today-

I think it's the carb.

I started taking carb apart and when I took the top half off - part with the float hanging down, I noticed the float was hanging about halfway and after pushing it up a few times it came down alot further before stopping. Anyway did that a few more times and it didn't hang anymore so I put it back on and she fired up ran great til I shut her down.

Since it will surely reoccur should I clean the carb or order a repair kit with a new float?

Thx- Tim

dsmithjr · #13 05-01-2011, 08:25 PM

I did a carb rebuild on my 2284 and the kit does not come with the float. If you need a float be sure to order it also. The rebuild is straight up and not to bad. It took several times soaking and dipping mine and a lot of cleaning to get it back to where I was happy with it. The online kolher manual for the CH22 has a lot of good info on the carb settings. I think I ended up with about $35-40 in the rebuild kit.

timbo2 · #14 05-01-2011, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsmithjr

I did a carb rebuild on my 2284 and the kit does not come with the float. If you need a float be sure to order it also. The rebuild is straight up and not to bad. It took several times soaking and dipping mine and a lot of cleaning to get it back to where I was happy with it. The online kolher manual for the CH22 has a lot of good info on the carb settings. I think I ended up with about $35-40 in the rebuild kit.

Thanks,

looks like 24 757 03 is the repair kit and 24 757 02 is the float kit-
I'm sure it will be a fun project!

Did it help your 2284?

Tim

BCDSFCRET · #15 05-02-2011, 08:03 AM

Sir does your 2284 have a selonoid under the carburator? If it does, check it when you turn on the ignition switch you should hear it or feel it move.
If it is not working the selonoid will not let gas into the carburator.
good luck.

timbo2 · #16 05-02-2011, 12:08 PM

Thanks, I think thats the click I hear when the key hits the 1st or 2nd position before ignition?

Dropped a screw right down the carb last night. If God likes comedy then he likes watching me work on tractors. Of course he also gave us magnets so I was saved. ARGHH

dsmithjr · #17 05-02-2011, 07:48 PM

I did the carb rebuild and tune up then I had to replace one of my coils to get mine back to 100%. I also checked the selonoid and such but found it easiest to just pull the carb, clean and check everything and do it right one time and be done with it. So far I have only had one issue since were the tractor died twice but started right back up then ran fine I think it was just cold and I have been mowing and using mine for the last two months. Now if you can tell me how to get my amp light off Ill be happy Ive worn the thread search out trying things

timbo2 · #18 05-02-2011, 09:37 PM

Thanks,

My low fuel light likes to come on at about half a tank, least of my worries...

Think I'll do the carb rebuild with the float kit. Cleaned off lots of gunk just with the top choke half off and its running better/more consistant. Just a matter of time though so like you said, may as well do it while its easy to get at.

how did you know you needed to replace a coil?

dsmithjr · #19 05-04-2011, 08:59 PM

I had a rough idle and no power. The engine would bog going up hill and die when the PTO was switched on. One of the guys here suggested to check the fire on each cylinder and I noticed less spark on one side. After repairing some damaged wires I had no change so I ended up putting on one new coil. Problem solved. Now im working on solving the Amp light issue and my gas light doesnt work so adding that to my list. The 2284s are big tough tractors even though the plastic is weak on the hoods.

timbo2 · #20 05-08-2011, 06:19 PM

Thanks DSsmith,

I'm still fighting my 2284 like you are based on your thread. Good news is once its running it stays on and sounds good.

Bad news is I think I have an electrical problem like you stated on your thread. Ran great friday after new Fuel pump, fuel line\filter, oil and filter change.

tried it today and no go, it grinds slowly, looses juice fast and doesn't start. I noticed the PTO was turning while cranking but pto switch was off. I unplugged harness that leads up to the PTO(3 wires into 2 wires) and problem persisted, so now I'm chasing that one. gonna do some searches on PTO switch problems etc . . .

good luck with your amp issue.
any suggestions/advice welcome, thanks.