What a rag

[twoton]

This is the same schematic that I used to verify my original assembly,
So I’m not sure if I follow,? The picture shows #’s 5, 20, 4, 3, 2, and delete #28 (for Serial Number 612808 & above, which my machine is not). The picture shows, as far as I can see, the shoulder of the throw out bearing to the back of the machine, NO?, looks like it to me, seems to verify the origin install. Or maybe the the picture is wrong and the PO assembled the clutch the wrong way based on this same “wrong” picture?

[twoton]

And here is the clutch installed;

[twoton]

The Clutch engages and disengages just fine. If the throw out bearing were turned around, the face of the bearing would be approx. 5/8" further back (the length of the shoulder) on the drive shaft, requiring the release lever to be pulled that much further back to disengage the clutch. As it is, the nut (#12) on the clutch linkage (#11 in the schematic) is almost fully bottomed out (I actually had to add a spacer ( between nut #12 and the release lever) to get enough travel for the clutch to disengage properly. You can see the spacer in the second picture in post #112 . This may bring me back to my original post where I was considering if the rear end was mounted to far back or the engine to far forward. As I have never had one of these apart, I am uncertain if the frame mountings are “holes” or “slots”.

Also, does it look like the pins in the driver are sufficiently engaged? They are flush with the back face of the friction disc.

[twoton]

So Sawdustdad, It looks like your teaser spring resides almost completely inside the spring spacer “cup”, yes? If this were the case, move #4 in between #20 and #5, this would allow the throw out bearing and the release arm to move forward on the shaft. Then the bottom of the release arm would pivot further forward, as driven by the throw out bearing and the blue spring, thus eliminating the need for the spacer that I added between nut #12 and the release arm. But, if I turn the TB around, I would loose those gains and then have to add the spacer back in????? Forgive my ignorance on these matters gentlemen, but it all seems contrary to the schematic. Maybe I’m to stupid to realize that the schematic is wrong, maybe???

[twoton]

Originally I got this link from Sam Mac,

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...ractor/clutch/

If the page does not come up search Cub cadet 1200 on parts tree and select clutch.

I then zoomed in on the TB on the schematic, looks to verify my original install.

[Sam Mac]

Just a thought, maybe you should download the service manual?
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

This pic is from the manual.

[mickb72]

Originally Posted by twoton

Originally I got this link from Sam Mac,

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...ractor/clutch/

If the page does not come up search Cub cadet 1200 on parts tree and select clutch.

I then zoomed in on the TB on the schematic, looks to verify my original install.

Hi, it's been posted before some of these schematics (pics) are wrong. Sawdust's is right. Putting that teaser spring in the cup will let your drive pins engage more and your shaft further into the pilot bearing. Mike

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by twoton

So Sawdustdad, It looks like your teaser spring resides almost completely inside the spring spacer “cup”, yes? If this were the case, move #4 in between #20 and #5, this would allow the throw out bearing and the release arm to move forward on the shaft. Then the bottom of the release arm would pivot further forward, as driven by the throw out bearing and the blue spring, thus eliminating the need for the spacer that I added between nut #12 and the release arm. But, if I turn the TB around, I would loose those gains and then have to add the spacer back in????? Forgive my ignorance on these matters gentlemen, but it all seems contrary to the schematic. Maybe I’m to stupid to realize that the schematic is wrong, maybe???

Lets clarify a few things. You are NOT looking at a schematic. You are looking at a picture in a parts book. The job of which is to show necessary parts. NOT to show the proper orientation of said parts. You have to look in a service manual to see that. Sam has posted a link to it in a post above. He even posted a pic of the correct page, which when you look at it, clearly shows how to install the T/O bearing.

It looks like you cleaned up all the hardware and reused it. It is entirely possible that your clutch lever is slightly wore, and slightly bent which would cause your nut to bottom out before you get the clutch to disengage. Also, when you install the teaser spring in the proper location, it will allow the lever to go further forward, so you may gain back what was lost.

You know..... the guys on here have been around the block with cubs for a long time. I know you are probably just trying to understand how to do this correctly, but wouldn't it make more sense to assume that we all know what we are talking about, instead of debate things?

Originally Posted by mickb72

Hi, it's been posted before some of these schematics (pics) are wrong. Sawdust's is right. Putting that teaser spring in the cup will let your drive pins engage more and your shaft further into the pilot bearing. Mike

Nothing on the driveshaft that is past the front pressure plate will affect how much of the drive pins engage in the clutch. The front P/plate is pinned to the shaft. How in the heck would anything beyond that move it forward?

[sawdustdad]

Twoton, to get your 3-pin driver to engage the friction disk a bit more, add a second flex disk to your coupler at the rear end if you only have one there. That should move the drive shaft forward about 3/8 inch or so, giving a little more engagement. This assumes that your engine is located in the proper spot and someone didn't elongate or move the frame or engine rail holes. That will also move the clutch release arm forward at the bottom, eliminating the need for the adjustment nut spacer.

[darkminion_17]

Are you missing the ball bearing in the coupler on the rear?