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#101
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Got some more paint on this afternoon and it looks really good. 2 wheels to paint and that's about it. Note to self (and others) install the pto clutch throw out lever BEFORE installing grill. Don't ask me how I know. Also it would be easy to hide the fact that I screwed the steering plate up also. But I did. It Caint all be good all the time. Got in a hurry and took to machine shop to let them drill and tap it. (Freebie) well they've got some very weak threads to accept the 9/16-14 threaded cam follower. I'll figure something out, got a couple ideas. I'll post what works. I should be. Able to post some pics tmrrw. Front tires arrived today. Rear Tommorrow. Decals have shipped so shouldn't be long til finished
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#102
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Here's a few pics. Coming along nicely. Gotta get the wiring harness pinned down. One piece I can't seem to find anywhere is the pto clutch release lever that goes behind the raise/lower lever for deck. Guess I'll have to round one up somewhere. Working today, and got a LOT of cleanup to do around the outbuilding at home this evening. Hope to get the hood and tires on in next day or so
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#103
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Ok getting real close to finishing up! First off, I improvised on the cam follower. Put a couple tacks on the backside of the plate for insurance and tightened the locknut. (Had the cam adjusted where it needed to be before tacking) installed the steering upgrade and its smooth like butter. Anyone know the size of the nut for steering wheel? Someone, (Austin) must have whooped the piss out of the shaft with a hammer and mushroomed it a bit. Took a porta band and sliced about an 1/8 inch off the threads but the nut I have still isn't starting. Could be wrong nut, don't want to cross thread for sure. Not installing steering wheel til decals come, just getting ready. Next question- does anyone know where the third picture piece goes. I'm 99% sure I took it off, just don't remember where. Thought was part of steering linkage, but now don't know. And last, I adjusted the clutch with 3/16 freeplay and looked like it was working flawlessly. After filling rear end with oil, decided to engage the transmission with it on blocks. No go, grinding. Gonna look at the brake and adjust Tommorrow. Doesn't seem to engage when pedal depressed all the way, wheels still spin
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#104
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Seems like I adjusted the nut both ways to make them work, but doesn't seem to be pushing the piston with the o-ring into the cylinder, if that makes sense. Gonna tap it a little Tommorrow in case I painted it and it's froze. It has new o-ring and internal pads. On a better note, when I started it a few mins ago, sat and idled like a new one!!🚜🚜👍👍
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#105
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Ok maybe they'll post this time
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#106
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And one more time
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#107
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Looking good.
![]() The PTO engagement handle can be made easy enough if you can't find one. I don't understand your other question... ![]()
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#108
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Ok was getting late last nite. The questions are- size of steering wheel nut, but think I found it online. Now as I understand it the clutch pedal is a combo clutch/brake. I adjusted the freeplay to 3/16 per manual. When I press the clutch all the way in, laying on my back I can see that it's moving the brake lever in front of rear end housing. Then if I lock clutch lever down, I can still spin the hubs. Doesn't matter if it's in nutruel or in gear. When I had the rear end out of the tractor, after installing the new brake pads I could pull the lever by hand and stop the hubs from spinning. My question is would the brakes not holding make the gears grind bad enough that you can't shift from nutruel to put it in gear?
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#109
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Ok upon a little further investigating. The brake doesn't stop you from spinning the hubs by hand. It stops you from turning the input shaft to the rear end. Got the brake adjusted now, but still grinds when you put in gear on blocks. Will wait til I get wheels and tires on and see if the problem persists. Rearends have always baffled me. Spin by hand and one HUB turns one way and one the other, until there is resistance on both, then they turn the same way. So maybe just needs resistance. Who knows
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#110
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I think that's because it's a limited slip rear end. If it was not, then both wheels would spin in the same direction if it was a "locked" rear end.
If you have your 102 running there on the stands, then if the clutch was assembled correctly, and adjusted correctly, I believe when you step on the clutch peddle, that should disengage the drive line from spinning power to the rear end. Your brake components have nothing to do with preventing the gears from grinding. You can not "shift-on-the-fly" with these tractors. Like you said, those two brake pucks just slow down the input shaft, and you only get one rear wheel to stop with. Aside from this, you are doing a very nice job on this 102! Paint looks great! take care!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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