What a rag

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Yes sir!, so here we are, almost three weeks and five snow storms latter. And all my parts are finally in. I probably could have walked there and gotten them sooner, but anyways, a big thanks to Midwest and Mcmaster for getting me my stuff in just three days. So here it is;

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Clutch plates turned;

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And all my hardware, cleaned up and painted and the new ball bushing installed;

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And time to assemble the clutch. Well….., So Merk, I’ve been looking over your clutch rebuild tutorial, and I really like the jig you built, but, even though I have no problems welding, I thought, being a carpenter, maybe I would try something different. So here we go… and people, remember, this is for entertainment purposes only, construct and use at your own risk!!! OK, now that that is out of the way…

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First, I’ll make my base, with side rails and head block.


1, ¾” x 8” x 20” plywood base
2, 1” x 3 ¾” x 20” oak side rails
1, 2 5/8” x 2 5/8” x 6” Southern Yellow Pine head block

These dimensions are key as they not only support the clutch during assembly but also aid in centering the friction disc between the clutch plates.

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Assembled with screws and construction adhesive;

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Next;

2, 1” x 2 5/8” x 2 5/8” oak spacers
1, 1” x 2 5/8” x 8” oak head block cap.

These pieces act as Merks “safety bolt” does on his jig, holding the clutch in place during spring compression to avoid the old, ‘drive shaft in my skull” scenario.

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Assembled with more screws and const adh. Also you can see the drive shaft support block , 1, 1 ½” x 6” x 6” doug fir, installed. It should reside in the area beneath the holes where the spirol pins will be driven. 6” long to accommodate both short (tractor with creeper) and long (without) driveshafts. In my case the block is 4” from the open end of the base.

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And now for the slide;

1, 1” x 2” x 8” oak top plate
2, 3/4” x 2 5/8” x 2 5/8” oak drive blocks
1, 1 ½” x 6” x 6” doug fir slide base block

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Assembled with adhesive and screws. Note the difference in width between the drive blocks and the top plate. This will give you access to the hole so you can drive the spirol pin in after compression of the spring. Also, note that the top plate only has two screws holding it to the rest of the assembly. This will allow the top plate to be easily removed to allow installation of a drive shaft that still has the output yoke installed. The top plate is not glued to the rest of the assembly.