Dave's 1650 Project - Page 10

Methos · #91 07-12-2011, 12:40 PM

Your making great progress! Looking forward to your updates!

CC1650Dave · #92 07-12-2011, 11:19 PM

OK, I'm surprised no one has caught my snafu on the footrest screws. I noted earlier that I put a 9/16" socket on the underside, and the nuts just rounded off.

Tonight, I tried it again and actually removed two of the nuts, so I was encouraged. However, it turns out that those nuts are WELDED to the underside of the bracket.

!! So much for my read first, wrench second approach - lol. I never laid down and looked under there.

Once I got a clue, I took to the screws with a #3 Phillips head mounted to my electric impact wrench, and they popped out. Only one of them stripped out the Phillips, and I was able to get that one by grabbing the head really tight with a pair of vise grips. So the fender pan is off!
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And the wiring harness is pulled:
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Time to start reading the Service Manual section on Splitting the Tractor, I guess...

jsoluna · #93 07-13-2011, 12:14 AM

Wow! Look at all the crud on the hydro! It's gonna be awesome when you're done man.

ACecil · #94 07-13-2011, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsoluna

Wow! Look at all the crud on the hydro! It's gonna be awesome when you're done man.

I totally agree!

CC1650Dave · #95 07-13-2011, 06:18 PM

I picked up a #1 trailer to go with my tractor today. That'll be a project of its own.

I put it over in the attachments forum.

CC1650Dave · #96 07-14-2011, 10:07 AM

Now that I have the hydro accessible...

You may recall that the forward/reverse speed control was stuck at the neutral position. I tried a suggestion to loosen the nut on the outside of the tower, and it did not help. The problem is somewhere in the linkage or the hydro itself.

Last night I remembered the mechanic from the scrap yard told me that when he did start the engine, the tractor surged forward on him. So that provides a clue - even though it was in the N position, the hydro is engaged and the control won't budge.

Any suggestions on what I should look for? (Edit 7/18/11 - keep reading, it was the stuck linkage at the rear end)

j.m.jackson · #97 07-14-2011, 10:20 AM

Power wash all the grunge out from the linkage and take a look at it.

From your picture, looking at the right hand side of the hydro pump, where the springs are, you should be able to move the part coming out of the hydro back and forth, against the springs.

If it was stuck, was the brake pedal down? That'll lock it in neutral. Also, the lever can get pretty darn tight if it's rusty down where the lever rotates in the pedestal.

cub1450 · #98 07-14-2011, 10:03 PM

When I got my 1450 it had the same problem I loosend that nut all the way up and it still wouldn`t budge.I had to spray the linkage with pb blaster and let it soak overnight and I had to bump the plate back and forth with a rubber mallet
and it took a little while to get it loose but it drove like a top.

CC1650Dave · #99 07-14-2011, 10:52 PM

It was a productive day, so join me for a cold one and hang out for a bit...

Time to pull the Kohler. So I consulted the Service Manual and it said to lift the front end, so that you could tilt the axle to access the front bolts. I don't have access to my garage ceiling (plastered and painted) so I built a rig with sawhorses, a 4x4, and one of the ratchet tie-downs from my truck:
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Even with the axle tilted, it was really difficult to get in there and access those bolts. So I sat down and searched OCC, and found this thread where you guys were discussing just that. I went with william1041200 on removing the axle pin. It's really easy to drop that thing, and gives you a LOT more access.

Quote:

Originally Posted by william1041200

on my 1200 , I leave the cradle rails in. I drop the front axle (remove the pivot pin) to get to my front engine bolts...
I have done it with front axle in, but there is hardly any room to ratchet a gear wrench , and you would want to punch a baby trying to get those front bolts back in with axle in the way!

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So I get the axle dropped, get my ratchet in there, and guess what? NO BOLTS! Not on either side of the front.

Now I know that someone has pulled this engine before, and obviously couldn't figure out how to get those bolts back in. Then they left it to run with two of four engine bolts.

So now I'm wondering if it's ever been rebuilt. I can't find any markings on the top of the piston, not "STD" or "10" or anything.

But anyway, here's the big Kohler, ready to go to the bench for takedown:
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I did pull it out by grabbing it and lifting it out. I checked the specs, and it runs around 120 lbs, so it's not too difficult.

CC1650Dave · #**100** 07-14-2011, 11:12 PM

Here's a shot of the crud after the engine is out:

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And after a little cleaning with a plastic scraper and nylon brush:
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Here you can see where the engine has been rubbing on the frame, so you know that between worn ISO mounts and missing a few bolts, it was wearing on the oil pan. I haven't looked at it yet.

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