105 Throttle/Governor Setup

[steved]

I think this might help. The battery neg. was hooked to the black wire on the left and the pos. to the white wire on the right. Looking at the electric starting wire diagram 1-33, the pos. should go to the magnetic switch. The white wire is negative. Exactly opposite from what I have. So if I switch the battery around or buy another if the leads are too short, what do I need to do next? You mentioned re-polarize the VR? I'm including pictures of the VR and S/G.

[steved]

While I'm studying the schematic, what does the magnetic switch do?

[dvogtvpe]

the magnetic switch is a starter solenoid , you only have to worry about re-polarizing if it won't charge. get it running first

[steved]

Bear with me for another question. If battery pos. goes to the magnetic switch, that appears to be bolted to the tower, is that not a positive ground? You previously said it was a negative ground system. It might be the terminology that is confusing me but the battery was definitely hooked up backwards from the schematic 1-33 part 5 and 6. Thanks again!

[garnold]

Originally Posted by steved

Bear with me for another question. If battery pos. goes to the magnetic switch, that appears to be bolted to the tower, is that not a positive ground? You previously said it was a negative ground system. It might be the terminology that is confusing me but the battery was definitely hooked up backwards from the schematic 1-33 part 5 and 6. Thanks again!

The system is for sure a negative ground.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by steved

If battery pos. goes to the magnetic switch, that appears to be bolted to the tower, is that not a positive ground?

The solenoid is bolted to the tower, but that doesn't have anything to do with it. The wire attaching to the negative terminal of the battery runs to the frame. That is what is meant by negative ground. Yes, we are sure the machine is negative ground.

[dvogtvpe]

yep it bolts to the dash, the studs are isolated so they don't contact the outer housing.

[steved]

I finally got back in the shop this afternoon. Swapped the battery connection, filed the points, gapped them to .020. Followed J-Mech's timing procedure and it worked perfect. I ended up gapping to .018 to get the "S" centered in the window. My Grandfather's 105 is running right at 1200 rpm's idle and 3580 rpm's WOT at the physical limits on the dash. .030 gap on the spark plug. She purr's like a kitten. The battery switch also solved something that I had on my question list that I had not brought up yet. The battery charge meter on the dash previously fluctuated back and forth between neg. and pos. Now it stays constantly in the positive. I've still got several items to address but that's what the winter is for. I just want to thank all of you that have put up with my newbie questions. Believe me, every question I ask has been thought out before I hit send. Most of the time when I you guy's answer back it's been like darn, that makes sense. Thanks again.

[Alvy]

Make sure that when you swapped your battery that the terminals are toward the dash and not toward the gas tank, you don't want the battery hold down to arc across them

[steved]

Thanks for looking out for me. When I tested everything, I tilted the battery to make the connections. After everything worked, I went to Autozone got a new battery. So now I have an extra battery, but not a problem. My ZTR or Snapper always seem to need a new one when I least expect it. Thanks!