Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Guest, We have turned off the forum to guest. This is due to bots attacking the site. It is still free to register.

-->
Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)
Reload this Page 129 flexible coupling replacement
Register FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-25-2009, 08:48 PM
bombur bombur is offline
New Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 28
Default 129 flexible coupling replacement
I hoped this would be an easy out/easy in project, but no. I removed the 4 bolts from the coupling arm, took the old torn coupling out but could not get the new flex coupling in. So Ithought I would remove the pin from the arm to move it a bit astern to make room for the new flex. When I tapped the pin lightly it dodn't budge, when I used more force it started to peen over. What's the correct procedure here??
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-25-2009, 09:10 PM
RPalmer's Avatar
RPalmer RPalmer is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 766
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by bombur View Post
I hoped this would be an easy out/easy in project, but no. I removed the 4 bolts from the coupling arm, took the old torn coupling out but could not get the new flex coupling in. So Ithought I would remove the pin from the arm to move it a bit astern to make room for the new flex. When I tapped the pin lightly it dodn't budge, when I used more force it started to peen over. What's the correct procedure here??
Soak your pin with a good penetrating oil. Then soak it some more. Use a pin punch and hit it a little more that lightly. You don't want to hit it like you are going to drive it out. Hit it so that you set up a vibration so to speak. Get a kind of rhythm, like a blacksmith working a horse shoe. Don't beat it. let the weight of the hammer do the work. That should work.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-25-2009, 09:21 PM
clint clint is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 293
Default
Agree on penetrating oil, PB Blaster will do, also a small propane torch to heat the pin will do wonders if soaking in PB Blaster don't break it loose.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-26-2009, 06:15 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
Founding Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,684
Default
It also helps to have one of these....
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

[SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-26-2009, 09:06 AM
RPalmer's Avatar
RPalmer RPalmer is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 766
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
It also helps to have one of these....
Hey.. that's nice! I like the tit on the end to help keep it in place. I see by the other end it has seen some use. Is that a special order tool? Or should I go on a mission to hunt one up?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-26-2009, 09:19 AM
MBounds's Avatar
MBounds MBounds is offline
Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Joaquin, Texas
Posts: 459
Default
RE: Spirol Pins and Pin Punches: The "tit" on the end is not to keep it lined up...it's purpose to cause the spirol pin to contract away from the walls of the hole and thus easier to remove.

Roll a piece of paper and pull the inside out of one end...and watch how the outside gets smaller...That's basically what's hapening to the splirol pins when the punch with the "tit" is used...

Myron B
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-26-2009, 09:31 AM
Merk Merk is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,190
Default
Sears sells a set of roll pinpunches for $20.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s+%26+Pry+Bars
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-26-2009, 10:29 AM
murphycc
Guest
  
Posts: n/a
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
Sears sells a set of roll pinpunches for $20.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s+%26+Pry+Bars
Yes I have that set, makes all the difference in the world. Do the job right. As Myron states the force is exerted to the center of the pin thus relieving pressure from the external portion of the pin.

Once mushroomed you can use an angle grinder and cutting wheel to cut off the mushoomed portion and try again. if the other end is clean tap from the other direction but with my luck the other end will be damaged too.





Scott
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-27-2009, 01:19 PM
bombur bombur is offline
New Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 28
Default What's next??????
Taking everyone's suggestions, for which I am thankful, I bought some pb Blaster, put it on, used my shiny new Sears spirol pin extractor and after a few minutes the pin was out. Unfortunately even when I move the now free coupling back, there still is insufficient room to get the new flex coupling over the end of the drive shaft. Do I have to take the pin out from the engine end too? Do I have to remove the shaft?

I don't see an icon for teeth gnashing or vulgar language

Bombur
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-27-2009, 01:40 PM
RPalmer's Avatar
RPalmer RPalmer is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 766
Default
bombur,
Make sure that the pin at the engine end of the drive shaft is in it's proper place and not in a worn out area that prevents it from moving.
Reply With Quote
Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:44 AM.

www.onlycubcadets.net - Archive - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.