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#1
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ok so last winter i had to replace the dowel pin in the drive shaft on the motor side it was so tight in there i had to heat it up to drive it out and sence then the new pin has been loose i had a hose clamp around the coupler on the motor to hold it in and today the pin put a hole in the hose clamp and the pin fell out is there some way to tighten to hole or do i need to look for a different shaft
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#2
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Are you referring to the 1/4x1 1/2 inch dowel?
Is the shaft wallowed out is why it's loose? I've not run into this problem, but only thing I can think of would be to weld the hole up and re-drill it.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#3
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yes that is the pin i am referring too and yes i think it is just slightly wallowed out
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#4
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You could try "knarling" the pin, which means taking a center punch around the middle of the dowel pin and hitting it in several places around the diameter. This may distort the surface of the pin enough to give it a tighter fit inside the hole. If you do this you may also use some form of Loctite on the pin too. Just a thought, good luck!
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Wendy Oaks IH Cub Cadets, Springville, IA.
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#5
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Personally I would take the weld and rebore the hole route. The hole being wallowed out is most likely the reason for the loose pin and trying to expand the pin may be a real pain that only might work and may allow further wallowing out.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#6
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I agree, Paul.
If this was my problem, I would have the hole welded if the person doing the welding was very good. I am not a good welder. I would have a new drive shaft made from 4140 grade steel shaft, have the machine shop drill the holes to original specification and re-install the shaft. Problem solved. |
#7
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Thomas send "Jeff in pa" a PM he makes drive shafts
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#8
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This is what I would do. Place the dowel pin where is should be and either braze or silver solder it into place.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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