New to Pulling

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Your going to need one that moves a lot of air if your going to use it for "working". dvogtvpe or austin might be able to better answer that question.

Let me ask you this.... What do you mean by "worker"? You mean mowing tractor, plow, tiller, or just tugging a cart around? When I talk about my "worker" tractors they pull plows and tillers. Some people think of a worker as the machine they use to pull a cart out to the woods.......

I have a Johnny Bucket, front end loader mounted on it and plan to spread several truck loads of dirt and gravel over the next year or two. I also use it to pull a 4x8 trailer around the land. Once all that is done it will be a full time puller.

My best bet might be to just run at 3600 for now. It has a very strong engine, and I suspect it has pulled before.

[J-Mech]

If you have all those attachments, then I wouldn't pull it yet..... if ever.

Listen, I've built pulling tractors before for farmers. Built up some diesel pickups too. Some of them wanted tractors/trucks they could use, and pull. For all practical purposes, there is no such thing. You either build it for pulling, or you keep it for work. If you build a tractor that is good on the track, it isn't worth a s**t for working. If you build one for working, it is decent on the track, but isn't competitive. I always told them, if we try and build a machine that can be used for both, chances are it won't be good at either job. I going to say if you want to have a puller, you just need to buy another machine and make it a dedicated puller. Just being honest here. But, FWIW, you can build a machine that has a lot of guts that runs under 4K. Just all depends on what class you want to run in. Back to what I was saying before.... you need to decide what you want. But you really can't "have your cake and eat it too". That's my

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If you have all those attachments, then I wouldn't pull it yet..... if ever.

Listen, I've built pulling tractors before for farmers. Built up some diesel pickups too. Some of them wanted tractors/trucks they could use, and pull. For all practical purposes, there is no such thing. You either build it for pulling, or you keep it for work. If you build a tractor that is good on the track, it isn't worth a s**t for working. If you build one for working, it is decent on the track, but isn't competitive. I always told them, if we try and build a machine that can be used for both, chances are it won't be good at either job. I going to say if you want to have a puller, you just need to buy another machine and make it a dedicated puller. Just being honest here. But, FWIW, you can build a machine that has a lot of guts that runs under 4K. Just all depends on what class you want to run in. Back to what I was saying before.... you need to decide what you want. But you really can't "have your cake and eat it too". That's my

I am running in the garden modified class. They allow an aftermarket cam, but that is about it for the engine. The competition is not that fierce locally. Any well balanced tractor with a strong engine and good tires would do well. They allow 23" cut tires. Virtually all the tractors in the class are running Tru Powers uncut. Any tire suggestions?

[dvogtvpe]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

I have read the manual. The governor is set up per the manual. The old carburetor had a loose throttle shaft and I suspect it was a walbro. I would not go above 3600 rpm even if I opened the throttle wide open by hand. With the new carburetor, it will easily go above 4000 rpm if I open it up by hand. I understand about the cast iron flywheels and the danger of running them above factory settings, but an extra 400 rpm can't be that bad or all the clubs would require limiting the rpm to 3600 or require steel flywheels. A steel flywheel is not an option because this is a working tractor as well as a puller. What I don't want to do is set the governor so the engine goes to 5000 rpm under load. I am looking for a safe governor setting that is competitive. Any suggestions?

if the governor is properly setup at 3600 with no load it will not go above 3600 under load

[austin8214]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

I am running in the garden modified class. They allow an aftermarket cam, but that is about it for the engine. The competition is not that fierce locally. Any well balanced tractor with a strong engine and good tires would do well. They allow 23" cut tires. Virtually all the tractors in the class are running Tru Powers uncut. Any tire suggestions?

Anything but Tru Powers. Find a set of old Carlisle Super Lugs or Firestone's.

[austin8214]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

It is not a question of money or not listening. Yes I could have spent $35 to rebuild my old carb. The new one cost $85. The time saved is worth the difference in price to me. It was also over carbureted. A friend of mine at the track wanted a look at it and said it had the biggest venture he had ever seen. He said to get a #30. You guys recommended a #26. I actually sent the #30 back and paid the additional shipping to get a #26 so I am listening.

I have researched steel flywheels and everyone I saw did not have cooling fins on them. I don't see how you can have a working tractor without cooling fins, so obviously I am not understanding something here. Show me what I need to buy and I'll take care of it.

Bolt a set of plastic fins on it and go. Lots of guys do that.

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by austin8214

Bolt a set of plastic fins on it and go. Lots of guys do that.

Good tip. Thanks

[dvogtvpe]

stockers need torque. more the better. all that torque is made down in the 2800 to 3400 range. so the thinking you will gain power by running 4000 is not true, set your governor to 3800 to 3900 and don't worry about it. stuff to concentrate on is things that make torque. compression, advanced timing , a good valve job to improve air flow and flywheel weight are common things that help with that. coils, velocity stacks , K&N filters really in the big picture don't do much of anything

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

if the governor is properly setup at 3600 with no load it will not go above 3600 under load

What happens if you increase the sensitivity? Will it go above 3600 momentarily? I keep reading that people had good results when the engine hunts for a set RPM.

My obsession with 4000 RPM began at my first pull when someone told me I had to get the engine up to 4000. Once hooked up, the guy actually gets off the tractor and wires the throttle wide open.

[dvogtvpe]

all you are doing is making the governor respond to the load quicker, it don't cause it to overspeed. what do you mean by wire the throttle open?