1650 Dual Hydraulics

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

I thinking a modified 12x muffler, they cost $30.

sounds like a plan to me.

[mobermiller]

On your muffler, is it rusted out? You say it's busted up. If there is metal to work with weld it up. My 1650 started to roar out the exhaust and I found that pipe from the engine had broken off the muffler and I had a crack where the muffler mounts to the aluminum box. I Mig welded everything up and it's still holding. I expect one day to have to weld it again.

Good luck whatever you choose to do.

[64fleetside]

It has been welded up before, and an ugly job at that. I may be able to patch it, but really can't justify a Benjamin on a muffler right now.

[64fleetside]

Found the iso mounts are like new, had to have been replaced recently. Too bad the engine mount bolts came out, lots of wear on the side that was still bolted and one bolt was too long and tightened up to the point of cracking the oil pan. Parts list is growing, may have to cannibalize it for parts, that dual hydraulic setup would be nice on my 129...

[ol'George]

Do the cradle mod and put on a cast pan. BTDT

[64fleetside]

Figger might as well pull the piston and look while I'm there...but 16 stuff seems hard to find. Big old bore looks impressive, had to use a puller to get it out, definately heavier than 12 or 10 horse engines

[64fleetside]

Got the muffler mount or whatever you call it TIG'ed up at Vilonia Metal, gonna order a new piston and rod and gasket set.
Is a 16 hp rod the same as 10-12hp etc?
I think dude did a swell job on the weld. This stuff is thin.

[twoton]

Glad to hear you're going ahead and fixing it Brian. Don't know personally about the connecting rod but did find this on Dave Kirks site;

"The next important component is the connecting rod. Don
Vogt (a highly respected engine builder) turned me on to
this one. Kohler made an 18 hp version of the K341, which
they called the K361. It was a K341 with overhead valves.
But the con rod used in this engine is an Alcoa aluminum
FORGING instead of the standard die-cast part. Best of all,
this lovely rod fits right into the other engines perfectly. It
has the same external dimensions, center distances, and
mass as the die-cast rod.
The Kohler part numbers are:
45-067-16 for std. crankpin diameter
45-067-18 for .010 under crankpin diameter
This rod is a must for a high-performance engine, unless
you want to spend more on a fully machined billet rod from
Midwest Super Cub. The Kohler part will set you back about
$100 but it's good insurance against failure."

Which I found here;

http://www.kirkengines.com/downloads...ohlerPartI.pdf

Which would suggest Kohler used the same rod for all K series engines.

Maybe someone else can verify this.

[64fleetside]

There's a cat on ePay selling o/h kits cheap, my regular supplier has a piston but no rings and another has no 16hp stuff at all. I have one other avenue-- a buddy who can get Greene parts...

[rdeyoe]

Originally Posted by ol'George

On the iso's,
Chebbie quit using them in '57 and IIRR they are bigger diameter, and stiffer.
Try these, posta be soft and supple from what I hear.
Epay# 250639764475.
worth a try @ $20 shipped.
Gas smell:
the needle is prolly weeping, those big bore vibrators tend to beat the needle point up, prolly a needle/seat will be suffice, along with cleaning the carb.

ol'George knows I used these mounts on my 1450 ( link ) and so far they've been pretty good. I did have to get some large washers to support them as the holes in the cradle were a bit large. They are soft mounts, not stiff. I also repaired the aluminum oil pan and did the cradle mod. I'm concerned with their durability, but they really ride well. With all the tins on and after a good carb tune, mine is so quiet and smooth...just a joy to drive. If they don't last, i'm only out $20 for them...that's with shipping!