Are hydro's normally faster then gear drive?

[Tim.E]

johncub7172,,,,I think that first picture is the countershaft that the 1st,2nd and 3rd gears mesh into. The bottom picture, the one marked in yellow, I believe is your actual 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. But,hey I am no expert.

[johncub7172]

TIM E- Thank you. I was wondering, because I think its neat to have a 19 tooth second gear. Just wanted a little conformation.

Main shaft is the top shaft in the drawing. Counter shaft is the lower shaft.



Just last Saturday, I found these two items in a plastic bag, laying next to a huge track hoe with a big magnet. Thought they looked cool. I got a whole 5 gallon bucket load of stuff for 10 bucks.

Ok, so the hydros are faster. But I like the authority my 72 gives when moving up hills and grades with that continual constant speed. Down hill not so much.

[Tim.E]

garnold, on stretching the wheelbase,,,I did not add any length to the frame in the front, I just moved the front axle forward 5 inches from the stock position. On the 106 build I added 3-7/16" to the rear of the frame using a piece cut off of an old frame. Then I moved the transaxle back 3-7/16". The reason I chose 3-7/16" is because I just bolted the front mount in the rear hole,which moved it back 3-7/16". Then of course, the drive shaft and brake linkage had to be 3-7/16" longer. On the 100 build, I moved the rear axle back 2" and made a new driveshaft and brake linkage 2" longer. All this to use 27" tall tires and to get a "cool looking stance" and to get more leg/arm room (I have long legs and arms) (not to make it go faster)

[Tim.E]

johncub7172,,,you are right on the mainshaft/countershaft issue. So,to clarify,,I believe the three gears on the MAINSHAFT are your actual 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. I am continually learning (an making mistakes)

[garnold]

Originally Posted by Tim.E

garnold, on stretching the wheelbase,,,I did not add any length to the frame in the front, I just moved the front axle forward 5 inches from the stock position. On the 106 build I added 3-7/16" to the rear of the frame using a piece cut off of an old frame. Then I moved the transaxle back 3-7/16". The reason I chose 3-7/16" is because I just bolted the front mount in the rear hole,which moved it back 3-7/16". Then of course, the drive shaft and brake linkage had to be 3-7/16" longer. On the 100 build, I moved the rear axle back 2" and made a new driveshaft and brake linkage 2" longer. All this to use 27" tall tires and to get a "cool looking stance" and to get more leg/arm room (I have long legs and arms) (not to make it go faster)

Nice and thank you! I just got lucky and found out my neighbor is a welder by trade and likes beer. I can buy beer hahahaha. I'll talk more about this in your thread Tim. I have a 73 that wants to grow up to be just like your tractors

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by garnold

So the gearing in a hydro is different then a gear drive from what I'm reading.

Kinda. The only "gears" in a hydro are in a reduction housing just before the pinion shaft. It gives it a little more torque. Not anything in there that can be changed really. You would have to have a gear made if you wanted to change the ratio. Hydro...... is a little different animal. If you curious about hydro's, read this.

Originally Posted by garnold

Just for the sake of asking, can the gear ratio in a gear drive be stepped up to match a hydro?

Yes, you can. For the most part guys change the gears in the reduction housing. That way it speeds all the gears up a "stepped" or "calculated" amount. (Based on the new ratio) Or, companies like Midwest Super Cub make different gears. Pullers are way ahead of you.

Originally Posted by garnold

Also, again for the sake of learning, would the gearing in a gear drive then make it a more powerful tractor in regards to towing? This is not going to become a what tractor is better then the other thread, just looking to learn some stuff here.

Ummm.... yes. It's all about torque. That is why no one want's a hydro for 1.) pulling, 2.) plowing. Not that it can't be done.... just not as well. I plow with a hydro, but it's not my first choice.

Originally Posted by garnold

I'm very aware of how gearing works so this is kind of interesting.

Then you shouldn't really have many questions.

Originally Posted by johncub7172

So, how do you identify a 19 tooth second gear? Here, you see what is labeled "second gear".

On this part, marked with yellow, I counted 19 teeth:

The shaft in the first pic is the counter shaft. It should have a 33 tooth second gear if it mates with the other shaft you pictured. The gear marked in yellow, is the second gear sliding gear. Yes, it should have 19 teeth.

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Now, if I wanted to be smart, could I use those parts and make the gear drive faster than a hydro? Just kidding, I have no plans for that, lol!

No..... not really. Not those parts. You'd have to change the reduction gears. Or, buy a different second or third gear from someone like Midwest Super Cub.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Tim.E

johncub7172,,,you are right on the mainshaft/countershaft issue. I had them backwards. So,to clarify,,I guess the three gears on the MAINSHAFT are your actual 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. I am continually learning (an making mistakes)

Actually, the gears on the topshaft, and the bottom shaft make up a "gear set" (1st, 2nd, 3rd). It takes two gears, and when you change the number of teeth on one, you usually have to change them both. That is why the counter shaft bolts together.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by Tim.E

garnold,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,That may be my 106 build that you are referring to. What I have is a transaxle out of an early 100 which has the lower second gear, just like what Merk said. It seems this lower second gear is only slightly faster than first gear. Merk explained it well. There were no "options" on gear ratios ,but they used different second gear ratios on different models through the years. I think first and third gear is the same on all gear drive models. By the way, hydros are definitely faster (top speed) than gear drives in third gear.

First and third gears were the same on all gear drives.