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  #11  
Old 07-25-2017, 07:21 AM
sir_lancealot sir_lancealot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar281 View Post
Here is the deck. It measures 48" from edge to edge. I haven't measured blade tip to blade top, so my guess of 44" cut may have been off, but it's definitely 48" from edge to edge.
That is a 42" deck, most likely it is the 422 model. Here is the link to the parts breakdown if you need anything for it:

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/AR...6-A/0062660004
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:49 PM
Cougar281 Cougar281 is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
These engines have a compression release to help them start easier, they will read low doing a compression test.
According to page 1-7 of the service manual, Method No 3:

Checking with gauge on electric start engine. Crank engine electrically in normal manner. Engine will reach a high enough r.p.m. range to disengage A.C.R. and will then slow down slightly. Normal reading should then be obtained. If reading is below 100 p.s.i., recheck manually using method No. 2.


So the ACR 'shouldn't' be an issue with the electric start engine.

Now, I haven't re-checked using method No 2, partially because I haven't had the time yet, and partially because how would you wind a rope on the flywheel pulley and crank it in reverse?

But I'd say there's plenty of blowby, so I'm not exactly optimistic that compression is anywhere near optimal.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2017, 03:06 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Take off the S/G belt and move the PTO arm out of the way. That's where the rope goes.
I think it doesn't matter cause you are determined to rebuild the engine.
There is no point to a compression test if you don't at least check the head gasket. It's a common thing that gives trouble. It only takes a little while and gives a chance to scrape the carbon and inspect the valves and cylinder.
But it's your machine so do what you see fit.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2017, 08:59 PM
Cougar281 Cougar281 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry C View Post
Take off the S/G belt and move the PTO arm out of the way. That's where the rope goes.
I think it doesn't matter cause you are determined to rebuild the engine.
There is no point to a compression test if you don't at least check the head gasket. It's a common thing that gives trouble. It only takes a little while and gives a chance to scrape the carbon and inspect the valves and cylinder.
But it's your machine so do what you see fit.
Well, I wouldn't say 'determined' lol. You may well be right about the HG, but at the same time, there is a significant amount of blowby jetting out of the vent on the side of the engine, so that indicates that for one reason or another, combustion gasses are getting into the crankcase, most likely more than there should be, and it does smoke a bit. So odds are it needs more than just a HG.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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