No spark

[Terry C]

I'll bet it's not the coil.
Try this:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

I've replaced way more condensers and points than coils.
Used Stens coils with no issues

[Wayne]

Oh wait...memories starting to come back. I replaced the coil a few months ago because the old one was leaking, although it was still workking.

This one isn't leaking but it also isn't working. Could something have fried both of them in different way or is this probably just a coincidence?

[johncub7172]

Just a thought: The wire leading to the points might look fine, but you ought to check where it runs through the metal clip that is fastened to the cam cover, if your 108 still has it. I noticed many times that the wire insulation can be cracked in there letting current leak, and you'd never see it cracked. Usually by now, those wires need taped up good or replaced.

On my model 71, I had the slightest crack in the condenser insulation at the seal where the wire went in to the condenser. That would attract a little moisture and it would be game the #$%^ over every time, complete shut down of a running engine.

How's the points look?

[Wayne]

Originally Posted by Terry C

I'll bet it's not the coil.
Try this:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

I've replaced way more condensers and points than coils.
Used Stens coils with no issues

I didn't see this till after my last post. Gotta go to work so I'll try that tomorrow (if I can figure out what its telling me...I only had time for a glance). Too bad I got it out already...

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Just a thought: The wire leading to the points might look fine, but you ought to check where it runs through the metal clip that is fastened to the cam cover, if your 108 still has it. I noticed many times that the wire insulation can be cracked in there letting current leak, and you'd never see it cracked. Usually by now, those wires need taped up good or replaced.

On my model 71, I had the slightest crack in the condenser insulation at the seal where the wire went in to the condenser. That would attract a little moisture and it would be game the #$%^ over every time, complete shut down of a running engine.

How's the points look?

Points looked OK to me, although I didn't look at them with a magnifier. The points wire does have a break in the insulation about halfway along its length.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Wayne

If I'm doing it right, I'm not getting 12v on the negative side of the coil. One lead to the engine, one lead to the negative terminal (and/or the points end of the points wire) with the key on and points open. Nothing. Wires seem good. Pos side still shows 12v.

Make sure you are on clean, unpainted, metal on the engine, or use the neg pole of the battery.

[J-Mech]

None of the wires should be hooked to the engine as ground. Come on guys.

[Dart1917]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

None of the wires should be hooked to the engine as ground. Come on guys.

I think they are talking about the negative lead on the volt meter when he's checking for voltage.

[Wayne]

Originally Posted by ironman

Make sure you are on clean, unpainted, metal on the engine, or use the neg pole of the battery.

Yup. I'm using the same spot I use for the lead when the meter shows 12v on the pos. side of the coil, and I always test the pos side before and after to make sure.

[Yosemite Sam]

If you have power to the pos side of the coil (with the key on) and you can not get power at the neg side of the coil (even with the neg side wire removed) I believe your coil is bad.

You can check the coil with your meter as outlined in the link above.

[OldSkull]

Roland post this in the technical library section....
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

PS: test done with all wires removed.

Ha crap! Terry already post that link..

PPS: if you don't have a Kohler OEM coil find the spec of your after market coil to compare with.