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#11
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Been working on the 1650 as time and weather permits. Lots of progress, although it seems like little steps at times. I got all of the little stuff I needed for the tractor last week. Small stuff like another taillight, another lens to replace the cracked one off the left rear, a speed control knob, side panel spring, cast oil pan, fuel cap/gauge, and a driveshaft with all of the couplings. I rebuilt the driveshaft tonight with 4 new flex discs and a new plastic fan. Everything looks good, but I need a picture of the motor end of the driveshaft coupling to make sure I get everything right on mine. It was apart when I got it and I don't have anything to reference by. If anyone has a file pic, please post it. I put the cast oil pan on and the internals looked great on this motor. I have the rails stripped where the flat bar will be welded tomorrow and the old pan will be used to hold the rails in place for the cradle mod. I'll also have the welder tack a piece of keystock on the trunnion where it's worn grooves in the outer edge. I also aligned the front wheels today and tightened up the tie rod ends. All four castle nuts were finger loose after the cotter pins were removed. This caused most of the excessive play in the steering. The 50A deck got a new grease zerk where one was missing on the left spindle, but I still need to remove and sharpen the blades before it goes back under the tractor. Oh, and I also did the lift handle flip. It's so easy; every Quiet Line should have this mod done to it. So much easier when plowing or using a snowthrower.
As for the ISO mounts, I've decided to reuse my uppers and use 4 of the 8 that came in the ePay kit. My uppers are in excellent shape, so I'll move them to the bottom and put new uppers in from the kit. Plus then I'll have 4 mounts on standby incase I should somehow wind up with another Quiet Line I'll start with a thread and a half showing and go from there. After the cradle mod is done tomorrow and it gets a quick coat of CC Yellow, I'll be just about ready to start putting everything back together.
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Tom 105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts 782 CCC Red w/44C 1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower 2072 w/60" Haban IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61" JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812 |
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#12
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I think I figured out what I wanted to know about the front of the drive shaft. It should only have 1 flex disc, right? Two on the tranny end, and one up front. I can get it back together from here...
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Tom 105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts 782 CCC Red w/44C 1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower 2072 w/60" Haban IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61" JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812 |
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#13
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great score! but Dont get to excited about the 50 until you pull that to pulley cover off. Some people never remove the thing and its a trash and rust magnet. I had a 50A that looked almost new until the day i took the cover off. 3 wire wheels. a tube of jb weld hot patching rust pits. welding cracks at lift pins and rear wheels. 4 rattle cans of paint, burning rusted bolts, a new tension spring, 2 new pulleys including the double (ouch) and 2 spindle bearings (double ouch), one lower bearing retainer cone (triple ouch), a belt and a ruined set of clothes later I actually have an almost new one now.
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#14
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1650 looks good and clean with the engine removed.
Good idea with the lift handle flip..
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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#15
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She's all done! I got the cradle mod finished, keystock added to the trunnion, and driveshaft put back together. In the future with the cradle mod, I'm gonna move the flatbar forward another 1/4 inch. It's just a hair too close to the pto belt for my liking, but it's running without issue for now. Everything went together smoothly. I added oil and cleaned the carburetor, and it fired right off and runs great! Initially I had a hydro leak at the left line coupling at the transmission, but I was able to align it a bit better and snug the fitting, and now all is dry. The lights work, alternator charges, tranny is good, and the shaking is minimal at idle and non-existent at full throttle. I had to snug down the ISO mounts after the weight of the engine was placed on them, but I'm happy with the operation so far. I even had a spare front tire on hand for the right side one that was worn down so bad from being mis-aligned. The hour meter runs smoothly at 420 hours, so I have to believe that the tractor has around 1020 hours on it from the wear on the trunnion and the front tires. The 50A deck is super quiet and cuts well, although as is typical with the 50" decks, leaves a little in the middle in the really heavy thick grass. I'm really impressed with how well this tractor cleaned up and how well it runs and how solid it feels. I had planned on turning this 1650 right back out for sale, but I think I'm gonna have to play with it for a while.
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Tom 105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts 782 CCC Red w/44C 1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower 2072 w/60" Haban IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61" JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812 |
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#16
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Nicely done! Looks good for another 40 years!
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#17
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Looks really good !!
Maybe you could grind some of the brace where the belt is running close . |
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#18
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I agree that the QuietLines are maybe the best tractor Cub Cadet made, once you do the engine cradle upgrade, muffler box brace, and ISO mounts are adjusted. They are smoother and quieter than the wide frames, and easier to work on than the 82 Series and without the potential problems of their KT or Magnum engines.
Were the QuietLine Kohler engines made without the problematic governor gears found on the Wide Frames? |
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#19
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#20
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Quote:
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