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  #11  
Old 08-30-2014, 01:14 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks Brian,
Do you make your own tool out of a water pipe?
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2014, 04:38 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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If you haven't installed many oil seals before prob be a good idea to use a piece of PVC pipe or something similar. I"ve used a brass punch or regular large flat flat punch.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2014, 05:52 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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seals are about the last thing I put in the motor. I just freehand them in with a hammer
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2014, 01:17 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks Guys!
PVC pipe sounds good! Not sure I trust myself with a hammer next to the crankshaft.
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2014, 01:43 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
seals are about the last thing I put in the motor. I just freehand them in with a hammer
That's how I do it too....
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  #16  
Old 09-03-2014, 01:37 AM
rickx rickx is offline
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Got the block back from the machine shop and all looks well. I should be reassembling it soon. Three questions.
The Kohler engine manual says to torque the rod nuts(cap screws) to 20% over nominal value (260 in./pounds aftermarket rod), loosen and retorque to nominal value. Is this the correct procedure for the aftermarket rods?

The aftermarket piston I received has a 3-piece oil ring, 2 scrapers and a separator. Do I end gap these thin scrapers same as compression rings?

With the Kohler solid cast iron oil ring, the ring end gaps are spaced at 120degrees around the piston. How do you space the end gaps with 4 rings, (2 oil scrapers and 2 compression rings)?
Thanks for the help!
Rick
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  #17  
Old 09-03-2014, 08:17 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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did you get instructions with the rod ? if not what kind of hardware holds your rod cap on? yes it makes a difference

space the compression rings 180 and the oil rings 180, the oil ring gaps can line up with the compression rings since one is oil control and the tops compression. put your expander 90 to your oil gaps. it explains all this in the manual.
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2014, 12:30 AM
rickx rickx is offline
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Thanks DV,
The note included with the rod just says 260 inch pounds torque. no info. on procedure.
Sounds good on the ring gaps!
Thanks,
rick
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  #19  
Old 09-08-2014, 07:28 PM
rickx rickx is offline
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Three piece aftermarket oil ring question. Has anyone had to trim the separator ring to allow the scraper rings to collapse enough to fit into the bore?
The separator ring has shoulders on each side that keep each oil scraper from touching the piston. Unless I trim/shorten the separator ring, the scrapers will not collapse to the .010+ end gap I adjusted them to.
1st pic.: shoulders on separator ring ( both sides are the same)
2nd pic.: oil scraper ring fully expanded and still not large enough (I.D.) to fit over shoulders around entire separator ring.
Sorry for the crappy pictures.
Thanks,
Rick
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2014, 07:56 PM
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austin8214 austin8214 is offline
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Have you tried installing them on the piston?
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