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  #1  
Old 04-28-2015, 05:19 PM
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This is doable but it will be challenging. It will definitely require a custom adapter between the engine and the clutch. I agree that the PTO needs to be your starting point and then work to the rear from that point. What I would do is to locate the engine for the proper PTO location, then I would get the angle and alignment for the drive shaft worked out you need a straight line from the input to the trans all the way through the engine. Think one solid shaft connected to the trans ending at the PTO. Once you have that worked out then you can get the measurements to make the spacer that will bolt to the engine and the 3 pin driver for the clutch. If memory serves the B&S had an odd ball 3 pin driver so since you are going through the trouble if it was me I'd try to design the adapter to accept something that fits a Kohler. Try to keep the one off stuff to a minimum. Hope you have a good machine shop because you will need it. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:00 PM
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Hi Sam,

I appreciate your input. The clutch drive plate does mount to the vanguard hub, without a problem. I blocked up the engine, and attached the drive plate, and took this photo. The PTO is lined up, and the consequential gap is approximately 2" between the clutch and drive plate.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:12 PM
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You have the 3 pin driver bolted to the 2000 or 3000 series drive shaft adapter, that has to go. You are going to need to remove it and calculate the length between the face of the 3 pin driver and the cranks adapter.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:56 AM
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I've been giving this one a little more thought. You will need to replace your existing 3 pin driver because the one you have does not have the pilot bushing as part of the driver, you will need one like what IH cub cadet parts sells. You can click on his link at the top of the page. Once you get that, slide it in place on the clutch then measure the space between the back of the driver and the engine adapter. Then it's a simple job to make a spacer that will hold the driver and bolt to the engine adapter. Here is a pic of the driver from Marks web site. I don't have a pic of the other side but I'm sure someone here does.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:32 PM
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Thanks Sam! That adapter helps to simplify the process.
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:03 PM
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I sent Yosemite Sam AKA Mark a PM asking him to post a pic of the back side of the 3 pin driver yesterday, guess he is to busy to help.

Just sent him a second PM.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:29 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Hi guys, the other night my computer did one of those things where it shuts itself off and "upgrades" or "updates" or some damn thing and now I can't get it to do anything... I just spent 2 & 1/2 hours loading a picture in a different thread.

In this thread, no pictures are coming up, I have however read most of the text, hopefully soon I will have undone whatever this thing has done to itself and be able to respond to the situation within this thread hopefully with a bit of productive input.

For what it's worth, the three pin drivers that I make are a direct replacement for the factory NF/WF drivers NOT the QL ones.

Secondly the hub areas are exactly the same on the back side as the factory ones, however I can possibly modify one to meet the needs of this application.

The third thing and possibly most important, I do not have one of these on the shelf and with my current work-load I'm not sure when I can get one turned out, I should say two because someone else is in line in front of you. I will however do my best.
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