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  #11  
Old 03-28-2018, 10:45 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubDieselFan View Post
Have you removed the seals and cones yet? The races are in the center back to back, with a spacer between.
Well, he would have had to in order to know that the races are loose in the housing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NT55693 View Post
1) Bearings don't appear to be extremely bad off. Races and machined surfaces are free from gouges or metal burrs.
Just because they are free from "gouges or burrs" doesn't mean they aren't worn out. How about pitting? Metal rollout? Discoloration? Rust?


Quote:
Originally Posted by NT55693 View Post
2) Zerk fittings are shot. All three had malfunctioning retention balls and consequently a clod of dirt blocking the grease shaft.
Probably could have remedied that without taking everything apart like you did. But that's normal stuff. Zerks go bad. Especially those cheap ones.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NT55693 View Post
3) All three lower bearing races (side facing grass) are moving off their seat.
Left side 1/16"
Center 1/8"
Right side (can completely pull it out)
Upper races are solid and don't move at all (except the center which moves 1/16")

I am not a seasoned bearing repair veteran, but my understanding is that usually when races spin in the housing or pull out freely the assembly is shot.
I hope that isn't the case here since all three spindle housings have moveable races.

Is this business as usual with a spindle or are the housings shot?
Ok.... listing how much the races move in the housing is irrelevant. That they move AT ALL is relevant. Doesn't matter if they only "wiggle" .020" and you can spin them in the bore with your hand if you try "real hard". If they move AT ALL by hand, then they are loose and need to be tightened up. How loose they are depends on if the housing is shot. You can use a center punch and put dimples in the housing where the bearing race rides/sits. The dimples will push the metal up in spots and hold the race in place. I would also put some red loctite behind the race to help hold it. Actually, I'd probably use sleeve retainer.... but that's me. Red will help. I'd dimple it about every 1/8" at least. So, what, 8 or 10 times? Whatever works. Those sound pretty loose. So, no this is not "business as usual". They should be tight. If you can "rattle" the race in the housing, or the housing metal has a groove in it you can feel with your finger, it's probably shot and needs replaced.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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