Fresh 128 Engine

[_DX3_]

I got the engine back today from the machine shop. They bored it .010 over and turned the crankpin .010 under. Surfaced the head, and I'll be dang if I can't still slide a .002 feeler gauge under it in several spots . On top of that, they were suppose to glass bead it and clean it and the bearing plate, and that did not get done, grrrrrrrrrr. That's ok, I'll pass along my issues later to them. I cleaned up the block, got a good coat of hi temp paint on it, will paint the yellow later, and started doing the few things I could till I get my governor gear and shaft in. The rings needed filing of course. To top off my day with the engine, I over filed the top ring . The others are fine, will have to go get another set ordered. Installed the new valves and then installed the springs and lifters and put the cam in to check the valve lift with zero lash. All within spec and looking good. Will take that back apart and seat the valves. All in all, even with the few issues, it has been a great day working on and playing with the cubs. I did get some plowing seat time, so that pretty much mellowed me out .

Fresh engine block. Checking valve lift

[Matt G.]

If they 'flattened' the head gasket surface with a milling machine, that's why it isn't flat. Wet-sanding on a sheet of glass is the way to go.

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

If they 'flattened' the head gasket surface with a milling machine, that's why it isn't flat. Wet-sanding on a sheet of glass is the way to go.

Yep, I will be working on that this week to true it up. What is the best grit to start with? 80? 100? I have some 150 but it just didn't seem to be cutting it very much.

[Methos]

Oh that's looking great! Dang it I need to get starrted on mine asap!

[Matt G.]

I usually start with 100 or something like that and finish it with 220. It also works much better wet than dry.