149 No power to coil

[Grandpa53]

Yes, it is possible. Starter and coil are on two different circuits in ignition switch. If they were on same circuit starter/generator would be on start continuously.
When starting, turn key just far enough to engage starter. Sometimes if ignition switch has worn contacts they will complete circuit if switch is not turned completely.

[Grandpa53]

Also have you checked for battery voltage at battery terminal on ignition switch?

[jbeerens]

Me and Dad went through the wiring the other night and the key switch turned out to be fine; just some bad grounds. We're getting 12.5 volts to the coil now, but the engine still isn't getting spark. I cleaned and re-timed the points again, and got a new coil from O'Reilly. So, either I got a bad coil or the condenser isn't working. What should I do?

[ironman]

I suggested to you in post #7 to disconnect the condenser.
It's purpose is to reduce arcing across the points. The engine can run without one, just burns the points if you go long term without it.

Just remove the condenser lead from the neg side of the coil and give it a try.
If still no spark, you need a test light for easier further testing.

[jbeerens]

Got it. What do you do with the test light after that? We've got one that hooks onto the spark plug wire, if that's the kind you're referring to. Isn't it possible to test a coil with a multimeter?

[finsruskw]

Stick the test light to the neg side of the coil and crank.
It should flash.

[darkminion_17]

Attach a wire to the pos terminal on the battery and the other end to the pos wire on the coil. Then turn the key and let us know what happens. If it starts remove the wire, don't leave it on or you will ruin the coil. This will rule out a bad ignition switch.

[jbeerens]

Ok, I took the new coil and measured the resistance according to the chart that was linked earlier. From the case to any terminal was infinite resistance; In spec. From + to the tower was 9500 Ohms; In spec. From + to - was anywhere from 3.1 to 5 Ohms. I couldn't get a steady number on that one.
The chart says + to - should be between 4 and 8 Ohms, and my number was noticeably lower. Does this mean my coil is shot?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by ironman

I suggested to you in post #7 to disconnect the condenser.
It's purpose is to reduce arcing across the points. The engine can run without one, just burns the points if you go long term without it.

Just remove the condenser lead from the neg side of the coil and give it a try.
If still no spark, you need a test light for easier further testing.

Originally Posted by jbeerens

Got it. What do you do with the test light after that? We've got one that hooks onto the spark plug wire, if that's the kind you're referring to. Isn't it possible to test a coil with a multimeter?

What you have checks for high voltage output of the coil.
A test light (pictured) checks for voltage at various points in a circuit, in your case the key switch, coil, and points.

Your test procedure would be:
1. Remove the wire on the positive lug of the coil.

2. Attach the alligator clip of the test light to the negative post of your battery.

3. Turn your key to "on", touch the tip of the test light to the wire you lifted from the coil.
If light on, that section of the key switch is good.
If no light, the key switch is bad or the connector is not getting battery into the key switch.

4. If Step 3 gives you a light, turn and hold the key to "start". If light on, that section of the key switch is good. If no light, but you had light in Step 3, the key switch is bad.

5. If Steps 3 and 4 do not produce light on, persue key switch or connector problem.

6. If Steps 3 and 4 do produce light on, re-attach the wire to the positive lug of the coil. Attempt to start the engine, while it is cranking, touch the tip of the test light first to the positive lug of the coil,
then the negative lug. Both sides should produce a flashing light. The light goes on when the points are open, off when they are closed. If both lugs flash, the primary side of coil is good and points are good.

7. If no flash or a steady light on, remove the wire from the negative lug of the coil that goes to the points. Switch the alligator clip of the test tight from the negative battery post to the positive post.
Crank the engine and touch the tip of the test light to the wire going to the points. The light should flash, on when points close, off when they open.
If steady light on the points are not making contact when they close, if no light the points are not opening or are shorted.

[Billy-O]

What about your other coil? The current coil is out of specs on the +/- by roughly 25 percent but may or may not work..

It seems if you have power to the coil but Im still trying to figure out if your points are make and break. This is important. You seem to indicate that it is doing so. If it is functioning properly, then we have the coil by itself (see above), spark plug wire and spark plug to figure out.