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#1
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I recently finished rebuilding the steering knuckles and converting to a four bolt hub set up on my CC 149. Now that its all done I seem to have an excessive looking (to me) amount of positive camber. About an inch over the tire height. I cut the old 3/4" axle stub out and welded the new stub on ninety degrees to the knuckle. That whole procedure is posted in the the thread "149 Winter Tear Down".
My question is; is the original stub not ninety degrees from the knuckle? It looked like it was and I never really thought to check with a square. If some one has the wheels off of that style of knuckle and could check that would be a great help.
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#2
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The old stubs and the new stubs.
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#3
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Ambush, this thread may interest you.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=49564 It is self explanatory, but the bottom line is that almost 9 years later I still have the tractor in question in the thread, it is used all summer long, and everything steering wise is just fine and the tires still look like the pictures. Yours may look exaggerated because the tires do look taller, but at this point I wouldn't worry about it. |
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#4
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That’s perfect, thanks once again for your experienced opinion and help!!
I do think some of it is the flat profile of the tread that exaggerates the look. |
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#5
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Do you think they may have changed the steering geometry anticipating heavier loads on the 1” axels?
I’m not about to question or change the factory engineering. Only concerned I may have screwed up. |
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#6
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You didn't screw up if you welded the axles 90 degrees to the face of the spindle. That's where they were originally on all of the wide frame models regardless of axle size. We're so used to looking at worn out axles and spindles with little to no camber left that when we see one that is correct they look wrong. They have a lot of camber in order to put the contact patch of the tire in line ( or as close as possible) with the kingpin. When the wear occurs in the kingpin area and the knuckle pivot holes that is what makes these little tractors steer so hard. If the geometry is kept correct they can generally be steered with one finger unless severely overloaded. A good quality grease will be your friend when you put it together. ENJOY!
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#7
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That’s more good news Grandpa, thanks! They are welded in ninety degrees
The pivot holes were wore out a fair amount and it still had some positive camber. Just more now that they are not. I’m getting excited to try this new steering experience out! |
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#8
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You are gonna wish you had power steering!!
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#9
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I already wish I had power steering!!
In tight spots, with a heavy bucket, I often lift the front with the loader, then crank the wheels all the way. I’m picking up a complete three turn column from a JD 300 during some travels this week, so that should help once installed. I don’t use the original, single spool valve anymore so lots of room in the tower to put in a power steering orbital motor. Just have to find the setup at a reasonable cost. |
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#10
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That's what I did with my DanCo loader on my 149.
Works great! Used a column from an 1864 IIRC I ditched all the OEM lift stuff and ran the PS off the feed for that. |
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