The Haunted 129 -_-

[adamo]

Ok Jon. What's next? I will try what ever you suggest tomorrow morning. I've got kids and they wake up when they hear the door.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by adamo

Ok Jon. What's next? I will try what ever you suggest tomorrow morning. I've got kids and they wake up when they hear the door.

Hook the jumper cables up to the negative post of the battery, and the other end to the base of the S/G and see if it will crank. (Use only one of the cables, just leave the other off) If so: bad ground.

If not:
Get that wire back out and make up your "test light" again.
You may not be able to use the jumper cables this time, but reach in and see if the headlamp will light on the post on the solenoid where the wire is from the battery. If yes, then, without touching the key at all (off) touch the other big post on the solenoid. Does it light? It should not. Now, turn the key to the start position and hold it. Does the light light? It should. If it does, then check the "A" post one more time. Does it still light?

Report findings.

[ironman]

[TheSaturnV]

Jonathan's right, this is a process of elimination. If you give up on it, you'll have to start over from scratch if it sits a week. Get away from it for a few hours if you're ready to light a match, then hit it again. We're all pullin for you!

[Sugarmaker]

Adam,
This is a test from your grandfather. He was at the Battle of the Bulge. You just have to get past the Battle of the Cub!
These types of problems can be difficult to check especially if your like me and have limited knowledge of electrical systems. Also remember that OLD Cub wiring systems are sometimes in really poor shape. I have been through a couple and they can have the wire coverings deteriorated and missing in spots.
I think your doing a good job following instructions and testing.
(I just went through a bunch of the same issues with a bigger tractor I am working on)
Regards,
Chris

[TheSaturnV]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

Adam,
This is a test from your grandfather. He was at the Battle of the Bulge. You just have to get past the Battle of the Cub!

Amen Chris!

Adam,

Don't let this suggesting interrupt or distract your troubleshooting process, but FYI there are brand new wiring harnesses available for sale online. They are provided by cottage industry folks that have really done their homework regarding gauges, connectors and proper color schemes. Once you get this gremlin chased off, you might consider a brand new set o' wirin'.

[Yosemite Sam]

I hate jumping around when it comes to diagnosing an electrical problem BUT, have we ever determined that we have ground to the S/G?

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

I hate jumping around when it comes to diagnosing an electrical problem BUT, have we ever determined that we have ground to the S/G?

A few of us already had him do that test Mark I think you too with running the negative jumper cable from battery to s/g case in the beginning.

I know there are some that shoot me down here with this method but a volt drop test with a meter on both the positive and negative sides seperatley don't lie. 12 volts at the beginning of the circuit under load and no less than 11.5 at the end for example. Or, doing the volt drop test, no more than .5 volts on your meter testing each side under load, it will be found.

Gotta be cable or connection opening under load or wired wrong. This ones interesting for sure

[ol'George]

I'm following it too guys, I'm staying in the backrow as John is doing great.
And somewhere down the road many ppl will benefit from the success of it all besides the op.
A family tractor or anything for that matter, has special meaning.
I've said it several times before here.
My Dad has been gone 48 years now, and his tool handles are still warm from his hand, just as warm as they were when he instructed me how to use them back then, and I put them in my little hands for the first time!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Alvy

A few of us already had him do that test Mark I think you too with running the negative jumper cable from battery to s/g case in the beginning.

I know there are some that shoot me down here with this method but a volt drop test with a meter on both the positive and negative sides seperatley don't lie. 12 volts at the beginning of the circuit under load and no less than 11.5 at the end for example. Or, doing the volt drop test, no more than .5 volts on your meter testing each side under load, it will be found.

Gotta be cable or connection opening under load or wired wrong. This ones interesting for sure

I thought that too.... but he does seem to be getting 12V at the starter "A" terminal. Confirmed both by a meter, and the brightness of the "test light".

Originally Posted by ol'George

My Dad has been gone 48 years now, and his tool handles are still warm from his hand, just as warm as they were when he instructed me how to use them back then, and I put them in my little hands for the first time!

I have some tools like that.
My dad is still alive and very well. I have lost a granddad that I was close to, the other is still with me. Even though I may not have the exact tool, there are tools I pick up and can't help but always remember how I was shown how to use it. I've done things with tools, and had people just look at me. "Never seen anyone do that." .... My reply: "My dad/granddad taught me that."