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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#31
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So your motor did not turn when you jumped the two big post together? you had better check that the wire going to the starter. It is broken or not corrected to the right place.
BTW; When you jump the big post it doesn t matter if the key is on or off as far as the motor turning over. It will not start with the key off but it should still turn over.
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Gary 1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers 1969 125 42" 1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics 1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12 2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow 74 "Green 100 "John"
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#32
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I have checked that wire. When I turn the key, I can confirm that I am getting 12v to the A terminal on the starter Generator.
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#33
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Okay so you are getting 12v to that terminal when you hit the key to start position.
For now lets disregard that, When you jumped the big post together you should also still get 12v to the Terminal on the starter gen. Now the thing is, one strand of wire in that cable will carry 12v, but that does not mean you are getting enough amperage to spin the starter. If you have a heavy gauge wire available, make up a temporary wire to replace it. That is what I was talking about doing with your booster cable but it may be difficult to get the cables in there. I really couldn't see how your solenoid is wired. I could not see a wire on the big post that is nearer in the picture.
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Gary 1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers 1969 125 42" 1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics 1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12 2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow 74 "Green 100 "John"
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#34
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Quote:
No way the wire is getting 12V on it. Something is missing Quote:
That solenoid is the wrong one. Also, right next to the solenoid is the PTO safety switch, which doesn't appear to have anything touching the button, and the wires are connected to the switch. So..... that likely isn't working either. I think the system is wired all wrong. |
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#35
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Quote:
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#36
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• Even though the battery is new, you might need to charge it back up and have it load tested. The shortcut around that is to try to jump the Cub with a truck or car. It's possible to have faulty batteries right off the shelf.
• The starter/gen may be spinning, but does it have enough UMPH© to actually crank the motor over? I've got 2 starter/gens that really struggle. I've had tractors go click-click-click and it turned out to be something like loose battery cables or juuust not enough electrical power to get the motor cranked over. Don't let your wife ever talk you into getting rid of your grandfather's Cub. That man walked out of the Ardennes alive, she can put up with a few gremlins! ![]()
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#37
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I uploaded more photos. Again, as currently wired, the tractor ran fine 2 weeks ago. However, I'm open to any suggestion. I can tell that the frayed wire coming off the solenoid and back near the voltage regulator is not connected to the voltage regulator. The only available terminal is the L terminal. I disconnected that wire and tried again, still just a click.
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#38
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Post a pic of you battery.
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#39
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__________________
Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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#40
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| Tags |
| 129, electrical probs, no crank |
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