Mechanical PTO Rebuild - Page 2

labrati · #11 05-19-2010, 01:53 PM

OK.. I've got the parts ordered from a local dealer and they should be in soon. I'm cleaning the pressure plate and pulley assembly, Painting where suggested, as well as cleaning the paint off of the nickle machine screws.

The one thing I'm having one heck of a time with is the PTO bearing collar. I've smacked that thing pretty hard and I can't get it to move.. there was no nut on mine just the set screw. I've hit it with PB a couple of times but I'm nervous about any PB getting behind the basket and pulley into the main bearing or any seal back there and trashing the seal.

I'm going to hit it with PB again.. but I'm figuring a standard hammer and punch should be moving this thing right? Cause mine isn't moving at all.. I'm doing this with the front still installed... just removed the grill... so I'm not really bashing the daylights out of it..

wshytle · #12 05-19-2010, 04:14 PM

Labrati-

You might try tapping in the other direction. I have come across locking collars that weren't installed correctly. If that's the case here you're just tightening it. Th PB shouldn't get to the crank seal so I wouldn't worry about it doing any damage.

Myron-

If the pto is working correctly there shouldn't be any problem running the engine. When disengaged the pto stops turning and when engaged the wear button should have a clearance between it and the thrust button. I agree if the wear button is touching the thrust button with the pto engaged it won't last long at all. This is easily corrected with an adjustment of the pto lever control rod.

MBounds · #13 05-19-2010, 10:31 PM

Wshytle: When the PTO is disengaged the wear button is depressing the thrust button. That means that, while the belt and disc aren't moving, the shaft is turning and the buttons are wearing on each other. Please reread your service manual for details of the PTO operation.

johncub7172 · #14 05-19-2010, 11:11 PM

Thats true. When pto is disengauged, you can see that the pto is not spinning...but that is not so with mine, as the pto spins no matter where I have the engaugement leaver. I rember that clearly now. This pto would not spin with the motor running when disengauaged. Very annoying problem we got here. In the mean time, I'll be reviewing the manual and reading close to this post.

johncub7172 · #15 05-19-2010, 11:28 PM

See, I may differ, because I never took my pto a part.......only off to remove the basketpully on to the fresh motor. The wear button and thrust button dont look good. Unless the eccentric locking collar setscrew and locknut is pushing against one of the throw-out lever screw jam nuts????.......Or I bet you 2 dollars to a donut that I got those darn 1/2 cone point hex-soc-hd. setscrews on the bearing. I'am no wizz at this. I will take a look in a day or so as I'am gonna have to get some parts. Is this a few good possiablities to the problem?? Thanks, John

wshytle · #16 05-20-2010, 08:48 AM

Myron-

I don't need to "reread" to manual on pto operation any more. I learned as a younger man if the pto and the engagement lever are properly adjusted the button will last a long time as IH had intended. Why would they wear quickly if the pto isn't turning? Engine vibration? If what you say is true then every time someone wants to just ride, plow, pull a harrow or a yard trailer they should engage the pto to keep the wear button off of the thrust button.

I'm a little in a fog as to why we are even discussing this.

MBounds · #17 05-20-2010, 09:14 PM

WShytle: The discussion ensued when I quoted the proper operating procedure from the IH Manual and you chose to argue...PLEASE READ THE NOTE: IN THE UPPER LEFT COLUMN. This is from Page 13, Operator's Manual, International Cub Cadet 71,102,122, & 123 Tractors,IH Publication 1 082 592 R2, dated 2-15-67. 'Nuff said.

labrati · #18 05-20-2010, 10:59 PM

Tonight I finally got the collar loose.. it involved an improvised punch, namely a 2ft long drill bit to get it to budge.. but now, of course I can't get the bearing off of there.. been soaking in PB... any thoughts on how to "encourage" it to free itself?

Also the PTO pulley set screws, there are only two.. one is completely buggered.. no threads.. the current set screws just slide right through. Should I just re-thread and put another set screw in there? Or run it with just two?

Last.. the S/G basket pulley.. that thing seems to be on there just as tight as the bearing.. when giving it a yank the whole shaft can move about a 1/16 or less... normal? and any ideas on encouraging that bad boy to slide on off appreciated as well.

thanks

johncub7172 · #19 05-20-2010, 11:10 PM

Try this: "Removing the Front PTO and Basket Pully" Written by Mr.Paul Funk. You can find this at http://www.cubcadetman.com . I realy got lucky with removing the basket pully.

labrati · #20 05-21-2010, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Try this: "Removing the Front PTO and Basket Pully" Written by Mr.Paul Funk. You can find this at http://www.cubcadetman.com . I realy got lucky with removing the basket pully.

WOW! I'm probably just going to clean and paint the front of the basket pulley when I manage to get the PTO bearing off of there.. Very informative write-up and I used similar ideas on my adventure with the PTO pulley... I don't have the second set of set screws in there and like I said I'm completely missing one set screw, so I guess I'm going to thread that buggered out hole and put my own in there.. I ordered a set with my parts (fingers crossed they come in today).. but I'll still also need the other two short "locking" set.. at any rate.. the basket pulley removal (unless it just pops off when I remove the PTO bearing) is just more than I bargained for.. and the deeper I go the more I'm finding and rebuilding.. and at some point franken127 has to go back to work...