Pulling the engine out of the 149

[Muzzy]

If you have someone to help you, you can use a 2x4 with a chain and a person on each end of the 2x4.

[Maxwelhse]

Originally Posted by Muzzy

If you have someone to help you, you can use a 2x4 with a chain and a person on each end of the 2x4.

That was my exact thought...

I've handled a few K series Kohlers by myself and I'd say it's "manageable", but they ARE heavy. Getting a helper is probably the safest plan.

[Rdrnek]

Well I got it out and the k301 swapped in. mowed the grass and the hydro issue reared it's ugly head. I will past about that in another thread I had going last fall.
Thanks for all the responses guys

[Cubcrazy]

Glad to hear you are back up and running Bob!

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Cubcrazy

Glad to hear you are back up and running Bob!

Same here!

[esleighton]

I just pulled mine a couple days ago. Removed hood and complete forward support frame first to remove PTO for access to S/G adjustment bracket attach bolt hole. Not bad for me to lift out that way. I left my garage in L.A. with all the amenities, so I make do.
I just weighed the engine at 95 lb. stripped down, with flywheel attached.

Eric of the Green Mountains

[81warren]

Just pulled the Kohler out of my 149 machine, there was only one bolt holding the engine in so it went fast. I used my cherry picker, a small chain on a couple of head bolts, lifted it up onto my work table. First thing I noticed was how badly the hole is in the drive shaft, back to the Hydro. I'll weld that up, replace lost metal and then dress the 1/4" hole to fit the bolt, I'll use a grade five bolt with a fiber-stop nut, rather than a roll pin. A bolt is far simpler to replace.
The slotted drive for that same connection will also be welded, made to be as new again.
Yea, have some wood blocking to hold the engine upright. I used a NF nut and short bolt as a 'nock-off' to get the flywheel off. Use a screwdriver behind the flywheel, force it outward, then hit the bolt with a larger hammer to pop it off.
Everything inside the motor was good except the piston, it showed signs of being eaten away at the top edge, I ordered a STD piston, pin & chrome rings.
My cylinder wall is perfect, I'll stay with the standard size. Rod throw & cap was perfect, no need to replace anything.

I also rebuilt the steering sector today. Apart and cleaned, we noticed the pin was worn in two spots, I welded those up, hand machined it on the fine grinder. Made a new gasket for the seal out of thicker wool, put some new grease on the worm and assembled it, adjusted the swivel first, a good drag fit, then adjusted the pin to a snug fit. It's now painted and ready to go.

[81warren]

Sorry .. I forgot the tough part, getting the steering wheel off the shaft !!!!!....
My machine has always been stored inside, you'd think then that taking off the steering wheel would be a snap ... it was NOT. I knew I needed a puller to get it off, so found some 1/4" steel place and cut a square about 5 x 5", then cut a U-slot big enough to fit the column, under the wheel. I sighted for two bolt holes on center with the shaft, marked and drilled them to 3/8". I used a commercial slotted puller yoke with a center bolt against the shaft end (nut removed first) two long bolts from my home-made piece up thru' the yoke and put pressure on with a big wrench. It took a LOT of pressure but the wheel finally popped up, the wheel loose. There was no rust on the splines or the hub but the factory had really socked the nut tight ... too tight to be practical. When I replace the wheel later we'll use anti-seize on the splines, tighten only to prevent being loose, this way it can come off much easier if ever again needed.
I have the 50 inch deck, sand blasted it clean under, primed it with red oxide then two coats of hard enamel. Should help make things work better, last longer.
81warren (that's my age)

[J-Mech]

Mr Warren,




I'm glad to see at 81 your tearing into projects! Good for you!

I'm not sure if you have never been into a Kohler, but you need to know that putting a standard piston, and not doing any machine work to that motor, your asking for trouble down the road. I understand it all looks good, but I can almost promise you it won't last long. Or it will burn oil. You really need to grind the crank, replace the rod, and bore the block. These engines are well made, but remember they have no oil pressure lube. They don't wear like a "regular" motor. Crank journals are bad about getting egg shaped, and so is the bore.

Good luck whichever way you go, and enjoy the forum!!

[yeeter]

Originally Posted by Muzzy

If you have someone to help you, you can use a 2x4 with a chain and a person on each end of the 2x4.

+1 on another person. Much easier to manage if two people. And if you get the right two people, all you have to to do is watch and serve the beer...