My 125 is driving me insane.

[Gfann]

OK, heres the deal. This might get long but I'm going to try and cut to to the chase.

I have a 125. It did start but chugged slightly before starting. The chugging got worse. I found the condenser wire was broke I replaced it. problem continued. I took carburetor off cleaned it and replaced the gaskets. still chugged. I replaced the coil & plug gapped to .025 and checked points gapped .020 . Still chugged. I replaced the starter, the solenoid, and rebuilt the wire harness [the harness was dried out and cracked in places thought it may have a ground issue]. Still it chugs, however now when I connect the batter it just tries to start without the key. The wiring is correct as far a sI can tell. I ordered a new regulator, but I did try a regulator off my 100 which is the same part number and still it chugged. I recently used a different starter motor because I read a thread with a issue with a wobbly armature that dragged and created a similar problem. But didn't help, still chugs! I don't have a pressure gang but I'm going to pick one up though.

My theory now is it is something with the engine perhaps the valves. or the rings. I did take the head off recently, earlier on in the process to check the valves and head, everything looked good, I did replace the head gasket. the combustion chamber had a .20 stamped in it. I believe that means the block was bored at one point which leads me to believe that issue maybe the engine.
IDK

[J-Mech]

What is "chuggs"? Maybe a video of it?

If it cranks when you hook up the battery, and your not trying to start it, then either the starter solenoid is stuck, or the wiring is not correct. Don't waste time gapping the points, set the timing. For the life of me, other than to get you to a close starting point, I don't know why Kohler even suggests a gap in the book. The gap on a Kohler is used to set time. This engine is not concerned with dwell.

You say you don't have a gauge..... I assume you mean a compression gauge? It really doesn't matter, as this engine has a compression release, and it would give you a false reading anyway.

I'm not sure why you are wanting to replace the regulator.

Please to save you money, test parts and see what is bad instead of just buying and guessing.

Yes, the 020 stamped in the piston means it has been bored .020" oversize. I have no reason to assume that it is an internal engine problem at this point. The simple fact it has been rebuilt doesn't really mean anything is wrong internally.

Did you adjust the valves?

Until I understand what "chuggs" means, I cannot offer any advise, other than on the starting problems. Either a vid, or a better explanation is in order please.

[olds45512]

have you tried adjusting the valves? dont bother with the compression guage, these engines have a built in compression release to help them start easier so the guage isnt accurate.

[Cub Cadet 123]

I'd start with some simple things like, are you getting a flow of fuel to the carb? Check for obstructions in the line or filter. When you rebuilt the carb and cleaned it did you make sure your holes in your fuel inlets were open and clear? Are the settings on your air and fuel settings of your carb adjusted properly?

Do you mean that the cub tries to start with the key in the off position when you hook up the battery?

Cub Cadet 123

[Rdrnek]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

What is "chuggs"? Maybe a video of it?

If it cranks when you hook up the battery, and your not trying to start it, then either the starter solenoid is stuck, or the wiring is not correct. Don't waste time gapping the points, set the timing. For the life of me, other than to get you to a close starting point, I don't know why Kohler even suggests a gap in the book. The gap on a Kohler is used to set time. This engine is not concerned with dwell.

You say you don't have a gauge..... I assume you mean a compression gauge? It really doesn't matter, as this engine has a compression release, and it would give you a false reading anyway.

I'm not sure why you are wanting to replace the regulator.

Please to save you money, test parts and see what is bad instead of just buying and guessing.

Yes, the 020 stamped in the piston means it has been bored .020" oversize. I have no reason to assume that it is an internal engine problem at this point. The simple fact it has been rebuilt doesn't really mean anything is wrong internally.

Did you adjust the valves?

Until I understand what "chuggs" means, I cannot offer any advise, other than on the starting problems. Either a vid, or a better explanation is in order please.

Just listen to J-mech this guy knows what he is talking about!!! He is a professional Mechanic.

[OldAndInTheWay]

I am also confused by "chugs". If you mean it chugs when running then starting would not be the issue.. Loss of power when running?

[Yosemite Sam]

From your description, I can't tell if the engine is really even running or not.

My suggestion is to set the timing first thing, I say that because at .20 your timing could be really close or really far off and you have no way to know. When you do a static time, you will actually see it happen and you KNOW that it is right, there is no guessing and once it is set, you can move on to something else with the confidence that "timing" is not an issue. Go to the tech section here and follow the instructions.

Then I would remove the main jet in the carb. and make sure the little holes in it are clear, remember that the main jet, or needle, is hollow and needs to be clean (inside) from the upper to the lower holes.

When you changed the head gasket on this engine did you check to see if the head was flat and did you clean the carbon off of the top of the engine and under side of the head?

Any time I've had the problem you describe with the engine turning over by itself it has been caused by an incorrect voltage regulator. But for now, lets get this engine running well and we'll work through the rest later.

[Gfann]

http://youtu.be/1NVTZbrQv88
The video is older, earlier on in the process so the coil and conducer are old. I disconnected the hydraulic lift belt. As to why I was changing the regulator. I was getting frustrated and sense I replaced everything else I figured what the heck. I did mean compression gauge, but sense that evidently won't show me anything I guess I'll forgo that. The issue is, -that dragging chug- you here in the video. It spins then drags - then chugs it doesn't start any more but occasionally will fire the gas that builds up in the head. It sounds like a hit-miss engine. At this point it seems like a engine problem. I was thinking about taking the engine off and tackling that head on with the tractor or the other stuff. I'm getting so focused on it now that I can't think straight, I just go in circles. Its a insanity!

The only thing I can add with the solenoid, that when I hook up the battery the engine tries to run, and if I turn the key I can here the solenoid click. This baffles me a bit sense the the click is the solenoid switch engages so how is power getting to the battery? I don't think solenoids have a positive and a negative side. The wiring is done exactly to the diagram. Of course the diagrams can sometimes be easily misunderstood. INSANITY!

[red56turbo]

If contacts stick in the voltage regulator, it can and will make the starter/generator turn over with the key off. BTDT.

[Gfann]

I have not adjusted the valves. Can't say that I know, never have done that before that could be a good idea. Would the kohler manual show that?