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Reload this Page My 149 died and won't start
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  #11  
Old 08-07-2013, 12:46 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Taking your DVM or VOM and turn it to the DC Volts scale, some setting above 15V.

Place or clip the Black test lead to the Battery Negative ( - ) terminal.

Do all your testing with the Red test lead.

With the Wiring Diagram in hand, start at the battery. Do you have 12VDC + there..???

Following the diagram, then go on to each component until you find an absence of Voltage.
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2013, 02:40 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I was going to say one of the safety interlock switches wasn't closing. But since it quit while running, that's likely not it. I'd suspect a bad ground or battery cable somewhere. Switches don't usually fail like that--they work intermittently then fail.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:41 PM
Grampie Grampie is offline
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Originally Posted by mirt54 View Post
OK, I tested the starter by connecting positive from battery to the starter terminal. I pulled the ignition switch and tested the "start" position and "ignition" position for continuity and they checked OK. The P.O. bypassed all the safety switches, so I guess that leaves the voltage regulator? Can these just die all of a sudden while running? How can I test the voltage regulator?
I don't know why your jumping all over the board looking for some phantom electrical issue wihthout checking the basic things first like spark. Take your spark plug out, put the plug wire on the plug and lay the plug on the head to ground it and spin the engine over with the key to see if you have spark. If not, check the points. Regap if needed. Again spin the engine over with the key and watch for spark at the points. If not, check for power at the coil. A simple test light will do, juice to the positive side of the coil. If no power to the coil positive terminal, go to the ignition switch OR run a hot wire from the pos batt terminal to the positive post on the coil, That will give you spark if all's good with your plug and points and coil and "with gas in your tank" it will start. If Not, you've got issues with internal engine parts like mabe a stuck valve. A voltage regulator won't kill a running engine.
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2013, 07:03 PM
mirt54 mirt54 is offline
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Well, I thought the PO bypassed all the switches, but the PTO switch is still connected and I only get a little over 6 volts on both of the terminals. I think that's the week link here. Am I correct?
  #15  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:05 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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WHOA! We are NOT on the same page!!! As far as I know, all 149's had a mechanical PTO What tractor is this? OR what has been modified??
  #16  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:26 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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thought the PO bypassed all the switches, but the PTO switch is still connected and I only get a little over 6 volts on both of the terminals. I think that's the week link here. Am I correct?
There is something grossly wrong here. (A) 149 does NOT have a PTO switch. (B) It appears, that you have not downloaded the wiring diagram as previously mentioned, cause it would have shown you that.

SO....either you are working on something other than a 149 or there are some major modifications. How about some Pics of this tractor.

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  #17  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:51 PM
mirt54 mirt54 is offline
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PTO safety switch? In the dash tower?
  #18  
Old 08-07-2013, 09:19 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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No. There isn't one. How about a pic.
  #19  
Old 08-07-2013, 09:46 PM
mirt54 mirt54 is offline
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No. There isn't one. How about a pic.
From standing in front of the tractor, looking over the gas tank on the left side of the tower to the left of where the ignition switch is.

File size too big will edit and revise with pics later
  #20  
Old 08-07-2013, 11:51 PM
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