Starting Cold Hydro's

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by cmatthew

valve gaps too

I could have lapped the valves when I decarboned it but it didn't seem to bad. They were gapped properly but that is something I will have to check again.

Originally Posted by cuber

What type of gas are you using? I personally don't use any gas that has ethanol in it unless I have to. I add SEA FOAM to all of my gas engines. Sea Foam and other gas additives will remove water/moisture from the gas and also clean the carb, intake, and combustion chamber as well. I highly recommend using SEA FOAM!!!! just my two cents

Does your 1650 have the manual hydro dump valves? If it does it will have the release lever flopper handle on the side of the tunnel cover. If your lever is in working condition you can hold it up and release the valves while your cranking/starting the engine. This will put a lot less strain on the starter and it will make the engine turn over faster. It works but it is hard to hold the lever and turn the key and run the choke and throttle all at the same time to start the engine, almost need a third hand but it does work.

Where are you getting your ethanol free gas? I don't know of any available in my area. I usually add Murphy Mystery Oil. Without it I do smoke between a little to a lot at startup but not when the MMO runs through it. I've considered using SEA FOAM in the past. Perhaps it's time.
I have one set of manual and one set auto hydro valves. (two 1650's) This one has the auto. It was last winter that I was wanting to sprout another limb.

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

'ppears to me, from your first post, all you need to do is drain your fuel system and put in some uncontaminated gas.

Fuel system will be my first task. I swapped tanks with a 149 I have because the pet cock seal was shot in the 1650. It did have a little stuck on dirt I couldn't get out easily and ended up letting it go when it wouldn't rinse out. I need to take care of that. I hope cleaning the fuel system will do it.

Originally Posted by wshytle

Have you considered a magnetic heater for the rearend to keep the fluid warm? I'm from the south but have read about a lot of guys in the colder states doing this for easier starts. Heck, I don't even change grades of oil for the winter here...don't need to. I do run high test fuel with MMO and it seems to help things keep running smoothly and start when they should.

I don't want to be the guy that has to tuck in his Cubs at night. It's enough for me to use a trickle charger on the 72. I suppose I could step up the octane for the winter though. That sounds reasonable to me.

Originally Posted by drglinski

Poor battery, poor grounds, poor grade of fuel, wrong choice of oil grade, the fact it's a hydrostat, and a handful of other things could be the culprit.

I'm starting to think it has a couple situations mentioned here just slightly off.

Originally Posted by Muzzy

The grade of oil, cold oil and hydro fluid have alot to do with it too. I generally have to jump mine when it's cold.

I spent last year jumping it so I invested in a few decent new batteries.

I believe what I will end up doing is going over these easy things that won't take it out of commission long in case I need it. There are a few more issues like the trunnion and brakes that also need attention but nothing else to prevent it's use for the rest of the winter.
The Cub was confined due to cars blocking the driveway and I took it with it's chains and loaded tires (and without the thrower) through (not over) the wall of snow I piled up with the 72. It hardly spun so I did it several more times. There was no stopping it. If it really needs to live inside this winter I'll let it.
On a side note, Inside means the great room in my living space. A/C in the summer and heat in the winter.