Loader parts hunt finds

LarryW · #1 11-15-2011, 10:12 PM

While Im waiting for my ported pump stuff to work out. Im starting to collect for another project. This is what I have found so far. I havent dropped a dime into it.

Cylinders are 30" eye/eye open and 20" closed. 2" bore, 1" shaft and 10" stroke. One has a nice shaft but rusty body. Other one has a rusty shaft. Hoping I can clean that up some so it dont ruin the seal. Or maybe I will just use the one for the bucket tilt.

JD bucket, 60". Edit: 73" OD. Rusty. I will have to shorted it and patch it up. Pretty rusty and full of rust holes. Im thinking shortening it maybe 45". Any width suggestions? Smaller is better but it has to at least cover the width at around 42" on 1872. I found a 10" pipe I plan on cutting a grader blade from. Rest is going over the bucket rust holes. I guess it would be like a reline of the inside bucket curved part.

Im suppose to look at some more freebee cylinders tomorrow I hope. I still need steel for the arms, pump and valves. To be continued.

CADplans · #2 11-15-2011, 10:46 PM

If I were to reuse that bucket, I would cut off the top and back, then cut off a piece of the bottom with the cutting edge and weld it together. Eliminate the curved part rather than trying to patch it.

Doing this will make the bucket shorter and more to scale of a Cub Cadet.

Other than light mulch (not heavy wet mulch) you can not lift a full bucket anyway. Even snow is too much.

99% of what you do does not require the bucket to cut the tractor width. Again smaller is better. 32" for a GT, 36-38" for a SGT. My 7.5 foot wide tractor has a 5.5 foot wide bucket. I would never dream of having a 7.5 foot wide bucket on that tractor and it weighs 10,000 pounds.

These hints are for a user tractor. For a show tractor put a 4 foot wide bucket on it.

LarryW · #3 11-15-2011, 11:21 PM

Thanks for the advise, Cadplans. I was questioning my thinking it was 60". So I just went out and measured and its actually 73" OD. So I could cut a 42" and if I can find new end plates make a 30" one too. Plus have enough for a 1" for some real heavy work, lol. Maybe make the 30" one shorter like you are saying. Then I wont need such a chunk of metal for the new end plates.

Methos · #4 11-16-2011, 08:57 AM

Looks like a great thread to follow!

ACecil · #5 11-16-2011, 11:02 AM

I'm looking forward to this thread.

LarryW · #6 11-27-2011, 10:56 PM

More free stuff.

These where Loader supports for a tractor model ? trip bucket. Not really sure what was originally for. Larger size by a lot though. But its good metal to me. I think it may be enough for the arms and the lift tower.

I also got 2 more hydraulic cylinders identical to my other ones. Cylinders are 30" eye/eye open and 20" closed. 2" bore, 1" shaft and 10" stroke. So I have 4 total now. I think they are to big for the bucket tip unless I just use one for that.

Still needing hydraulic valves and a pump unless I try making one of the 2 gm power steering ones work. I might just by a new one though. I see 2 stage pumps for under $100. Still need to research on size and such. Looks like the 2 stage ones might have to many GPM?

ACecil · #7 11-28-2011, 11:45 AM

You can't beat free stuff. Nice finds, Larry!

Merk · #8 11-28-2011, 04:59 PM

Quote:

by CADplans
99% of what you do does not require the bucket to cut the tractor width. Again smaller is better. 32" for a GT, 36-38" for a SGT. My 7.5 foot wide tractor has a 5.5 foot wide bucket. I would never dream of having a 7.5 foot wide bucket on that tractor and it weighs 10,000 pounds.

These hints are for a user tractor. For a show tractor put a 4 foot wide bucket on it.

Interresting......
When I still lived on a dairy farm I wish the loader bucket was at least as wide as the tractor 99% of the time. We had an IH 504 utility tractor with a 4 foot wide loader bucket on it. The front wheels ran on top of the material (cow poo) while I was trying to fill bucket with. I always had lines of material that the tractor wheels ran over because the of the narrow bucket. You may or may not be able to comepletely fill the bucket......a good loader operator knows what the loader tractor can handle.

In the long run you will be better off buying a loader of buying a set of loader plans for you Cub. You can always sell the plans after you are done building your loader. Odds are You will have just as much money on making that bucket fit as you would building from scratch.

How deep is the rust on the cylinder arms? You may have oil leakage problems with the cylinders because of the rust.

LarryW · #9 11-28-2011, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merk

In the long run you will be better off buying a loader of buying a set of loader plans for you Cub. You can always sell the plans after you are done building your loader. Odds are You will have just as much money on making that bucket fit as you would building from scratch.

How deep is the rust on the cylinder arms? You may have oil leakage problems with the cylinders because of the rust.

I think I found a free pump today. Not sure on the specs of it but its physically smaller in size. Its off a hagie detasseler. Its belt driven so if its to big I could just gear it down. Should be easy to hook up.

I think the rust on the cylinders will be ok. The guy who owned them said he has rebuilt plenty of cylinders and if I can get the shaft cleaned up and it does leak its just an O ring.

I have thought of just saving and buying one but I haven't seen any for sale around here at all. Plus so far everything has been free. Only thing left if the pump works out is the spool, hydraulic tank/filter and lines. And extra plus is I think it will be cool to build my own.