Are all cyl heads aluminum?

[CubbyRI]

Now its onto replacing the leaking head gasket and going to flatten the cyl head on wet/dry 320, on plate of glass first.

But I was wondering, are all these heads aluminum or are some cast iron?

[Cubcadet_107]

There might be custom billet steel heads that people make specifically for pullers, but I do believe all heads are aluminum. Heck almost all air-cooled engine heads are aluminum. At least in the small engine world.

I do have this late 1930s Briggs and Stratton model "A" engine with a cast iron head, but that's the only small engine I've seen with a cast-iron head.

That's really strange with the link not working

Edit: may have figured out why the link won't work and why the website title is censored. Stumbled across this thread by chance: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=47315
Posts 6,7,8 and 11 to be exact.

[CubbyRI]

So I watched the video on "milling" the head to flatness on wet sandpaper on a sheet of flat glass. Looks pretty easy. Which means I'll probably screw it up!
Now also know that all these heads are aluminum. I wonder why they leak and get warped so often and if anyone is making new heads?

[Cubcadet_107]

They tend to warp and leak due mainly to the engine running too hot, whether it be clogged cooling fins or lean mixture. They also will warp or even melt if the head gasket blows, requiring them to either be welded back up and then sanded down or entirely replaced.

Essentially keep your cooling fins clean, mixture slightly rich (make sure the throttle shaft doesn't have too much end play either), and keeping your head bolts tight to spec should prevent any warping and leaking from excessive heat.

[CubbyRI]

cool thanks man!

[R Bedell]

They tend to warp and leak due mainly to the engine running too hot, whether it be clogged cooling fins or lean mixture.

YUP, along with lack of inspection, proper maintenance, and if replaced, improper torquing,