Hydrostat Adjustment

[Cub Cadet 123]

Whenever I depress the brake/clutch of the 149 all the way down, it wants to creep forward. So, how do I adjust this so that neutral really is neutral and there would be no creeping forward when the lever is in the neutral position. Also, the hydrostat on my 149 allows me to adjust between forward and reverse on the go, but on my 123 I have to depress the clutch before making the change--were they designed differently since the 123 is from 1967 and the 149 is from 1973? Thanks in advance for the consideration of my questions!!

Cub Cadet 123

[young enthusiest]

149, take the tunnel cover off, there is a rod between the trunnion and the petal. I beleive it will have to be adjusted to be a bit longer. Once you take the tunnel cover off and spend a minute figuring how things work, you'll see what I mean. As for the 123, I think sonethings screwy there. You may want a helper to move the lever while you look from the bottom to see if something is catching in the trunnion assembly. The trunnion assembly is the same on both tractors, so you could use the 149 for a reference. Good luck!

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by young enthusiest

149, take the tunnel cover off, there is a rod between the trunnion and the petal. I beleive it will have to be adjusted to be a bit longer.

No. He needs to download the service manual from the Tech Library and read up on the operational neutral adjust procedure.

Cub Cadet 123-

Basically, you need to remove the tunnel cover on the 149 and loosen the two bolts that hold the cam linkage bracket to the pump. The holes are slotted so the plate can be moved up and down. Move it all the way up, and tighten one of the bolts slightly so it can't move on its own. Put the tractor on jackstands so the rear wheels are in the air, and then start the tractor and put the lever in neutral. The wheels will probably be spinning. Using a hammer and brass rod, very carefully (stay far away from the cooling fan) tap the cam linkage bracket down until the wheels stop spinning. Shut off the tractor, tighten the bolts, and put the tunnel cover back on, and you're all set.

[lowlyfzlucky]

MattG- Would this be the same procedure for a 1450???

[Matt G.]

Yep. I think the procedure is essentially the same for every hydro CC.

[Mark.]

I haven't taken a whole lot of time to try and figure out the cam and trunnions, last time I needed to fabricate a new bushing for the cam. Since I was there I figured I would see if I could make 'pedal down' = neutral.

Just like the time(s) before, when pushing the pedal down made the tractor stop I lost way too much reverse.

I'm thinking this is a design 'feature' to limit ground speed in reverse, I'm having none of it, I adjust the cams for full/ max speed and ignore the pedal when it comes to stopping.

So I'm curious, any one else loose ground speed in reverse when the pedal is adjusted to stop the tractor?

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

No. He needs to download the service manual from the Tech Library and read up on the operational neutral adjust procedure.

Cub Cadet 123-

Basically, you need to remove the tunnel cover on the 149 and loosen the two bolts that hold the cam linkage bracket to the pump. The holes are slotted so the plate can be moved up and down. Move it all the way up, and tighten one of the bolts slightly so it can't move on its own. Put the tractor on jackstands so the rear wheels are in the air, and then start the tractor and put the lever in neutral. The wheels will probably be spinning. Using a hammer and brass rod, very carefully (stay far away from the cooling fan) tap the cam linkage bracket down until the wheels stop spinning. Shut off the tractor, tighten the bolts, and put the tunnel cover back on, and you're all set.

I know I'm resurrecting a really old thread here, but I'm just confused by Matt's advice compared to what is stated in the manual, since the instructions never mention about putting the shift back in N until step 8. First it says to put it in F, then start the engine and adjust the cam bracket downward (from the topmost position) until the wheels stop turning. Then, again, says to put the lever in F, press the brake pedal and lock in place (so at that point the lever would be in N). Then, says to put the lever in F again and tighten the capscrews.

What Matt suggests - that of going in N right away and simply adjusting the cam down until the wheels stops - sounds like an easier way. Why start the process with the shift in F?

Any advice on it? I started up my rebuilt engine for the first time today and noticed that, even though when pressing the brake pedal the shift goes to N, tractor creeps forward unless I have the shift lever slightly to the right of N (towards R). Assuming I need to adjust the cam bracket.

[sawdustdad]

Hey, three4rd,

Put the brake pedal down, which puts it in neutral, then let go of the pedal. Adjust the bracket until the wheels stop spinning. Then, go forward, reverse, with the speed lever, then hit the brake pedal again, and see if the wheels stop. Basically, just adjust until when you hit the brake, it goes into true neutral. Do not lock the brake pedal down, that applies the brakes and keeps the wheels from spinning (to some degree anyway).

Glad the engine is running well. You are getting close to being done. You'll want to keep it once it's back up and running well.

And just for grins, I had to replace a cork gasket a couple days ago on one of my 129s. Split it to do it. Used two floor jacks, one on the rear end, which I then turned straight up so the fluid didn't run out and one with a 2x4 across under the frame. I had just changed the fluid and filter, so didn't feel like draining it again.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Hey, three4rd,

Put the brake pedal down, which puts it in neutral, then let go of the pedal. Adjust the bracket until the wheels stop spinning. Then, go forward, reverse, with the speed lever, then hit the brake pedal again, and see if the wheels stop. Basically, just adjust until when you hit the brake, it goes into true neutral. Do not lock the brake pedal down, that applies the brakes and keeps the wheels from spinning (to some degree anyway).

Glad the engine is running well. You are getting close to being done. You'll want to keep it once it's back up and running well.

And just for grins, I had to replace a cork gasket a couple days ago on one of my 129s. Split it to do it. Used two floor jacks, one on the rear end, which I then turned straight up so the fluid didn't run out and one with a 2x4 across under the frame. I had just changed the fluid and filter, so didn't feel like draining it again.

Frank,

Thanks for that info!

Great idea on the two jacks, 2x4, etc. to prevent hytran from running out. Being such a novice, I had a heck of a time with the transaxle on the jack (it was actually on there for like 2-3 months in all since we were on the now infamous Viking Sky journey in the middle of all the Cub work). The trans almost slipped off the jack several times - had me frequently worried that it'd completely slip off and damage the suction tube. I had a board wedged between the jack and bottom of the trans, and so probably didn't keep it jacked up high enough since it was likely always tilting too far front. And yet when I jacked it higher, the whole thing just seemed so unsecured and wobbly (didn't have the right-sized bungees to strap around it). Won't even talk about the trouble re-aligning the transaxle and frame holes - took aLOT of patience and maneuvering it back and forth till I got all 6 holes lined up. Glad someone wasn't paying me by the hour to do the cork gasket job for them They'd have not-so-politely refused once they got the bill....

I do plan on keeping the 129, at least as long as I'll be mowing paths in the woods across from our place. All last summer I kept them open with just my
weedwacker, which is a rather weak substitute for a 42" deck, especially when trying to keep 3-4' wide paths open that are probably 100-200' ft. long each. So the rebuilt engine won't be babied for very long. Thanks for the encouragement along the way....going back to last summer, and probably before.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Hey, three4rd,

You are getting close to being done.

I thought so....guess not.....