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#1
09-19-2016, 05:24 PM
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Tire tools
I'm thinking about doing my own tire changes instead of "trusting" someone else to do it, but I obviously don't want to break the bank either. I get the concept (I can do bicycle tires in my sleep, and yes I know they aren't the same thing but they are similar) and I think I can do it. I'm looking at a couple of these http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ron-61603.html just to do the job somewhat affordably since I won't be changing tires like crazy. Anyone have any thoughts, pro or con on them?
Thanks
__________________
Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. 
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#2
09-19-2016, 06:01 PM
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You need two tire irons and you also need this bead breaker. Price seems to have gone up since I bought mine but they work well on garden tractor tires.
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#3
09-19-2016, 06:19 PM
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I'm old, I'm Lazy so I take my stuff to the local tire guy. He's stupid cheap and fast. I'm happy, happy.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#4
09-19-2016, 06:55 PM
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I'm lazy too, I bought a used tire machine. way better!
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor
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#6
09-19-2016, 07:53 PM
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I bought this from Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/Manual-...ger-69686.html We already had selection of tire irons. So far I have changed all 4 on my Kawasaki Mule, fixed one rear on a 4 wheeler, changed one on a hay baler, and fixed a rear combine tire with it (Don't get excited, it is a SMALL combine--16" flotation tire). I think folks on this site suggested this tool. The only thing I suggest is not to get too aggressive and try to break the bead loose all at once. I've had some to break instantly and others that I had to keep indexing the tire a few times to get it loose. I did have to work on the fit of the part that screws down on the clamp spider (you'll know what I'm talking about if you ever see it in person). It is suggested to bolt it to the floor but I don't have that kind of real estate in the shop so I just manage with it sitting unsecured. I will say you can't use the long bar for coaxing the tires off and on without the tool secured--but it seems to scratch up the rims anyway.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck
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#7
09-20-2016, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
 I bought the bead breaker from HF only because I never had much luck breaking some of the beads loose from the rims. That's the hard part if you don't have a suitable tool. I didn't think I needed the whole tire changer thing. When I bought a bead breaker, I think I only gave about $25-$30 for it. Anybody local here wants about $10 or more to change out a garden tractor tire, or seal the bead or a little less to plug one. I am far too frugal to just give my money away when a tool like this has saved the purchase price many times over in the last 5-10 years. 
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#8
09-24-2016, 09:06 PM
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Bought the tools on Friday. Tire arrived yesterday. With a whole lot of persuasion I got the old tire off (broke the bead with some C clamps) and the new one on. The hardest part was a good tie between breaking the bead and getting the new tire to seat. Knock on wood so far it's holding well and I'm proud to say I did the change myself.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#10
09-25-2016, 05:17 PM
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I'm with Sam on this subject.
Yesterday I took a front tire that was leaking to my tire shop and had him put a tube in it. Tube and labor all finished cost me $18.95. I was at TSC the Friday before and they want $17 for a tube!!! This was an easy decision. Even if the tube was $11 I'll give them the $8 to save me all that effort. FWIW
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Randy Cubs: 71, 72, 127, 149, 1440, 2186 and 1864 John Deere 110 round fender John Deere 140 H3 Sears: GTV16
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