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#1
04-26-2010, 01:51 PM
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Help me identify my tractor
Hello, new here. Last year I purchased what I was told to be a 1980 IH CC 782. I mainly bought the machine because todays equipment is lite duty and doesn't last very long. Besides, I really like the nostalgic aspect. Anyway, it wasn't until recently that I found this site and really began to get the bug for everything Cub. Having said that, can someone help me truly identify my tractor based on the model and serial no?
Model No.: 143782399 Serial No.: 2050601U721976 Many thanks, Michael 
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#2
04-26-2010, 01:56 PM
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Well you're not going to like what i have to say, but what you have is a 1983 Cub Cadet Corporation(MTD) built 782. It did leave the factory red though.
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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#3
04-26-2010, 02:00 PM
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I just noticed that it has a sleeve hitch on it, and those are not recommended on the aluminum rear ends. It can be too much stress on the aluminum housing and it can pull the bolts out. Extreme motorworks makes a different lower bracket for the aluminum rear ends that have "ears" that bolt to the axle tubes, making it much stonger. The factory option was a true cat 0 3pt for it. Extreme makes those for it too.
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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#4
04-26-2010, 02:06 PM
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texfire75 it happens a lot. People see the IH on it and assume it is an IH built machine. There is a local guy that swears that his is a '80 also but serial numbers out to be a '84. It's not really a "bad" thing, just do what AJ suggested and get a lower mount from extreme motor works (listed in the parts source section) and you should be OK for using the sleeve hitch.
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Jay N. Eau Claire, WI RED 82 Series... The BEST cure for Yellow fever! 
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#5
04-26-2010, 02:17 PM
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Oh, one more thing, make sure you check the bolts that hold the rearend to the frame. The aluminum rear end tractors are notorius for those bolts to become loose and breaking off or destroying the housing. The only complaint about the aluminum rear ends are the weight. They are over 40# lighter than the cast iron ones.
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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#6
04-26-2010, 03:06 PM
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Well that blows but thanks for the help nonetheless. I don't think I'll get rid of it on that account as it is a good strong tractor. I paid $700 for it in good mowing running condition so I guess it is what it is. If I were to sell it though I now know NOT to present it.
Just out of curiousity, are there any major differences between the MTD CC and IH CC? I have been doing a lot of digging around on here and I'm somewhat of an implement nut. I saw an adaption by I believe Georg from Germany? Anyway, I took some inspiration and designed a similar bracket. I work in the mechanical engineering field and use 3D modeling software every day. I also have access to a full blown fab shop and we are in the process of fabbing up the bracket shown in the pictures below. Thanks again for the help. Michael
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#7
04-27-2010, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
 Nice looking 782 you have there!
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#8
04-27-2010, 09:58 AM
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Thank you.
Here are some pictures of the lift rod in question in addition to the beginnings of my hitch bracket. I'm not sure if the end of the lift rod sheared off or if it is supposed to look like this. I think I might be missing a piece that actually actuates the lift rod? Any help is much appreciated. Michael
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#9
04-27-2010, 01:30 PM
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That looks like someone modified it. There is supposed to be a counterbored hole for the head of a clevis pin to fit in. It'd be easy to make a new lift, bar, as it's just a straight piece of steel with two holes, one of which has a counterbore.
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#10
04-27-2010, 03:42 PM
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Maybe Rolland or someone can post a pic of the lift bar blue prints it looks like you could easily make one. On your 3rd pic, that clevis pin piece that connects the cylinder to the rockshaft arm likes like it's not in all the way or something.
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