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  #1  
Old 04-19-2010, 10:19 AM
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Mike1450 Mike1450 is offline
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Default 1450 makeover

Well six weeks ago I decided that it was time to makeover the old 1450. The snow had stopped so she would not have to plow and I had a few weeks before grass mowing time. She has always been taken care of since I got her 25 years ago. I would not consider her to be in bad shape but with time everything get's old and tired.

Two thing that need attention and were the main goals for the make over. The first was the engine (K321 original unit) started burning oil last year, about a pint every two hours. Even with this she still ran good and never failed to go to work. The second thing was the trans fluid leak between the hydro and trans-axle.

Everything else from this point was cleaning up and replacing worn parts as I came across them.

The first part of the plan take lots of pictures, just so I remember how everything went together. This was also handy because I have a old laptop I use in the garage when working on thing just so I can go on line to look up parts, manuals etc... In this case I load all the pictures I took as I went along so I can use them as reference. I also loaded the Kohler manual for the K321. This worked out great! I could pop between pictures or scan through the Kohler manual with no problem, even zoom in and out for more detailed views. As far as having the manuals for the 1450 I had many of them since my late father wrote them which in itself made this makeover a little special for me.

As many of you know these little tractors are not a very complex machine to work on. Taking it apart is not difficult. I first focused on taking the front end apart and pulling the engine. You can see in the picture there was also a head leak which did not surprise me considering she been running since 12/1976. Once the engine was out I focused on taking it apart. I knew I was going to take the block in to be machined. BTW when taking the machine apart I did it in section and all screws and small parts where put into plastic sandwich bags and labeled. Once I got the piston and rod out I found the side of the piston (valve side) worn, most likely answered the burning oil question. The walls of the cylinder measured on the high end of the spec, not out but up there. Valve seats looked good and the guides showed little wear, not bad considering how many times these parts moved over its lifetime.

Some pictures before makeover, engine etc..
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2010, 10:23 AM
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Mike1450 Mike1450 is offline
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I choose a local machine shop that actual use to be a Kohler repair center. They had very good knowledge and gave me many pointers on re assembling the engine. I had the cylinder bored 10 over and the crank turned turned 10 under. Head was trimmed to perfect flatness, block surface polished up and check for flatness as well. Valves cleaned and lapped. Whole block cleaned. The guys at the shop even ordered me the piston, rings and rod all Kohler parts at their cost which was a lot cheaper then what I was finding. This was handy simply because they were able to measure the piston and bore the cylinder accordingly.

While the block was away it gave me time to go back through all the part baggies and start cleaning each part in my part washer. Once parts were cleaned and dried I put them in new baggies, relabeled them and sealed them up so no dust of dirt would get to them.
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  #3  
Old 04-19-2010, 10:26 AM
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Focus now turned back to the frame which was dirty and oily. I popped a hydrolic hose to the lift this winter which sprayed oil all over the place. Lucky my neighbor who help me lift the engine out has a trucking shop a half mile down the road. He offered me his steam cleaner at the shop they use to clean the trucks. I said lets go so he got his trailer. I was impressed how the steam cleaner really cleaned up the grease and oil off of the frame. I was very careful when cleaning around the hydro seals etc... because of the heat and pressure.
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:36 AM
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Next was removing the rear-end and hydro as a unit. Disconnecting the linkages and brake rods. Removed six bolts and the rear-end slide right out. I was not planning to tear down the rear end. I changed oil in the rear end last year and do it on a regular schedule which keeps it very clean. I also have change the axle seals a few years back. The second goal I had was to get to the gasket between the hydro and axle which was leaking. I tilled the rear end up so all the fluid would be in the rear end. This is also a good time to see if your vent is not clogged, if its not clogged there will be some leakage of fluid. I good piece of duck tape over the hole works. Four bolts and off came the hydro. As you can see from the pictures it was shot. A new gasket was installed and hydro added back.

I also notice the Trunion plate was worn so that had to be welded up and filed back to spec's. This turn out to be the most challenging part since the cam bracket and trunion shaft were stuck together. It took 3 days soaking it in PB to get it apart. Once off the repair was made, new springs and ends were added.

Also I replace the shaft seals on the hydro unit they were not leaking but I had it this far apart. A good cleaning and fresh painting and she was ready.
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2010, 11:25 AM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Awesome write up and pics, Mike!
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2010, 12:15 PM
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Turbo Archie Turbo Archie is offline
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This is going to help me with mine.

Thanks!!!!





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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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