582 Vanguard repower

[Hack.45]

Hi Guys,

I've been following this board for a while, and researching my topics before posting new questions so as to not be redundant. But, I need some input. I'm currently repowering a International Harvester built 582 with a late model Briggs Vanguard 18 HP engine. The tractor will be used for lawn care and gardening, so I want to keep the PTO in its original location. The engine fits in with plenty of clearance, but sits too far forward, and too low. The height problem seems straight forward - engine spacers. But I'm getting hung up on the drive shaft issue.

My original engine has an aluminum fan wheel, which also is the clutch drive plate mount, and pilot bearing for the front of the drive shaft. My first question is, should I keep this fan for air movement? I'm thinking that the fan is there because of the diameter of the clutch assembly restricts air flow. Am I okay deleting it? Or should I keep it?

My second question is regarding the drive shaft length. I emailed Jeff in PA, who has been a great help with problem solving. He recommends making a lengthened drive shaft, but I'm wondering how that will work out in relation to the throw-out bearing assembly?

I attached pictures. The first picture is the flywheel assembly on the original opposed twin Briggs engine. The second picture is the fan and clutch drive plate. The last picture is the back of the Vanguard engine, with the original drive shaft hub.

Thanks for your help and input! It's very appreciated.

[Sam Mac]

This is doable but it will be challenging. It will definitely require a custom adapter between the engine and the clutch. I agree that the PTO needs to be your starting point and then work to the rear from that point. What I would do is to locate the engine for the proper PTO location, then I would get the angle and alignment for the drive shaft worked out you need a straight line from the input to the trans all the way through the engine. Think one solid shaft connected to the trans ending at the PTO. Once you have that worked out then you can get the measurements to make the spacer that will bolt to the engine and the 3 pin driver for the clutch. If memory serves the B&S had an odd ball 3 pin driver so since you are going through the trouble if it was me I'd try to design the adapter to accept something that fits a Kohler. Try to keep the one off stuff to a minimum. Hope you have a good machine shop because you will need it. Hope this makes sense.

[Hack.45]

Hi Sam,

I appreciate your input. The clutch drive plate does mount to the vanguard hub, without a problem. I blocked up the engine, and attached the drive plate, and took this photo. The PTO is lined up, and the consequential gap is approximately 2" between the clutch and drive plate.

[Sam Mac]

You have the 3 pin driver bolted to the 2000 or 3000 series drive shaft adapter, that has to go. You are going to need to remove it and calculate the length between the face of the 3 pin driver and the cranks adapter.

[Sam Mac]

I've been giving this one a little more thought. You will need to replace your existing 3 pin driver because the one you have does not have the pilot bushing as part of the driver, you will need one like what IH cub cadet parts sells. You can click on his link at the top of the page. Once you get that, slide it in place on the clutch then measure the space between the back of the driver and the engine adapter. Then it's a simple job to make a spacer that will hold the driver and bolt to the engine adapter. Here is a pic of the driver from Marks web site. I don't have a pic of the other side but I'm sure someone here does.

[Hack.45]

Thanks Sam! That adapter helps to simplify the process.

[Hack.45]

Hi Sam,

You're right on. The third picture in post #1 is the 2000 and 3000 series drive adapter. The other pictures were the factory drive setup that consisted of an aluminum fan, which had a pilot bearing, and bolted to a concave 3 pin driver. The pictures show the fan on the original engine, and then removed from the engine and attached to the clutch assembly.

[Yosemite Sam]

So the three pin driver that you have, has the same bolt pattern in the center as everything else Cub Cadet, it just doesn't have a pilot bushing/bearing?

[Hack.45]

Exactly. It's open in the center to fit over the pilot bearing in the fan blade. It bolted to the original engine through the two further spaced holes, but has the other 4, more typical cub cadet holes.

[darkminion_17]

A 1535 uses the same driver you picture,maybe just bolt a adapting flange #1 with the bushing on it.