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#1
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Ok on my original its driving me nuts trying to figure it out. When the drive line is cold the clutch disengages fine but once it warms up forget about it. Keeps pulling after the pedal is pressed down. I have greased everything i can on it. Lubed everything else. Adjusted the clutch and it got better but once warmed again back to square one. Seems that the PO had the same problem cuz there are no brakes left on it. I can use a flathead screw driver and pop it free and its fine until i release the pedal any help is appreciated
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Brandon CC models: 86, 1650, 100 w/hanban sickle mower & 1872 1972 86 w/12" brinly plow & 65lb wheel weights & 42" grader blade 1978 1650 Hydrostat w/44" mower & 42" IH push blade 1965 100 w/hanban sickle mower 1989CCC 1872 w/50c mower |
#2
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is it possible the clutch spring is getting weak? cold it has enough oomph, but warm/hot it is weakened? im probably way off, not having experience with one, but looking at the clutch assembly, if it wont release, but you can help it release and it stays im thinking weak springs. there isnt much more that is affected by heat that can be manipulated and stay. if it was the friction disc warping it would go right back to warped when released, and if it was sticky slides i would imagine it would be worse cold.
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#3
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See my 86 did this and it was just slight rust build up. But I've run the o around enough to wear that off
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Brandon CC models: 86, 1650, 100 w/hanban sickle mower & 1872 1972 86 w/12" brinly plow & 65lb wheel weights & 42" grader blade 1978 1650 Hydrostat w/44" mower & 42" IH push blade 1965 100 w/hanban sickle mower 1989CCC 1872 w/50c mower |
#4
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#5
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very true, i was thinking on the engagement side. the spring that applies the pressure to the clutch to keep them together.
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#6
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What kind of shape are the clutch plates and disks in?
I saw this happen on a go cart where the plates were worn beyond acceptable limits, and were tightened further and further to push a few more miles out of them. Once they heated up they basically lightly welded together. Like brake pads, the inner layers of the plates were not the same material as the outer, and thus not designed to handle the friction and heat. And I've seen the same type situation, clutch wouldn't disengage on motor bikes when the wrong type of oil is used in a wet clutch. And from oil on a dry clutch. I don't know much about O clutches, but if the clutch is supposed to be dry, maybe try disassembling and cleaning with brake parts cleaner in case someone assembled it with greasy hands. I know it sounds backwards, but grease/oil can cause a lock up.
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LT1050 w/ 50" deck, 680 Hydro w/ 38" deck, 1450 w/ 50" deck, 109 w/ 38" deck 1A tiller, 42" snow blade (x2), cw-36 snow thrower, H42 snow thrower, #1 cart, 8" Brinly plow, Unk cultivator, Sears rear blade, extra k301, more extra decks and parts than space to put them. |
#7
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We had this conversation on a facebook group this morning as well. He also stated that the turnbuckle was maxed all the way out and brakes were worn down to nothing. I suggested that the issue could be his pedal is not being depressed all the way due to the turnbuckle being maxed. Perhaps relining the brakes and backing off the buckle would help get more push out of the pedal to fully disengage the clutch plates.
The reason i suggested this is because of personal experience, i was having the same issue during my restoration, and found that the clutch pedal was not being allowed to go all the way down. Hope this helps ![]() |
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